Ceský Ráj revisted

Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates

Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates

 

 

 

 

Last Friday, during my post-Easter break, I explored the Hruboskalsko, another part of Ceský Ráj, a beautiful area of sandstone rocks and forests lying between 70-100 kilometres north east of Prague. Having parked my car in a designated parking area near the village of Pelešany, I made my way to join the red waymarked trail. This trail is designated the Zlatá Stezka or ‘Golden Trail’, so called because if you were to walk the whole of it, you would see all the best sights within Ceský Ráj.

 

After an initial climb, the trail brought me to this rock tower at Hlavatice. In the early years of the twentieth century, the local walking club erected a spiral iron staircase consisting of thirty-six steps, which allows access to the top of the tower……

 

 

 

 

….from where there is this splendid view of the nearby town of Turnov.

Turnov as seen from the top of the Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates

Turnov as seen from the top of the Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates

A further two kilometre walk brought me to Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle, originally built to take full advantage of the defensive qualities provided by the rocky outcrop on which it is situated.

Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle © Ricky Yates

Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle © Ricky Yates

Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle from below © Ricky Yates

Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle from below © Ricky Yates

During April, the castle is only open to the public on weekends, so being Friday, it was closed. However fortunately, the neighbouring Hospoda was open!

'The Castle Pub!' © Ricky Yates

‘The Castle Pub!’ © Ricky Yates

Pive?ko © Ricky Yates

Pivecko © Ricky Yates

Following liquid refreshment, I walked on through the beautifully forested landscape with some spectacular views of amazing rock towers. I’ll let the photographs do the talking.

Amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates

Amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates

More amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates

More amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates

Still more amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates

Still more amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates

I eventually reached Hrubá Skála, where there is a large hotel, built onto the remains of an earlier castle.

Hotel at Hrubá Skála © Ricky Yates

Hotel at Hrubá Skála © Ricky Yates

There is an access road up to the hotel from the valley below. Two large German tourist buses were parked outside the hotel and a third pulled up a couple of minutes later. Clearly the hotel gets good business from elderly German tourists, revisiting the Heimat 🙂 I beat a hasty retreat!

Rock tower © Ricky Yates

Rock tower © Ricky Yates

 

 

 

 

 

I made my return journey along the yellow waymarked route from where there are further views of more rock pillars. This one on the left I thought was particularly spectacular whilst those in the photograph below, look very dramatic in the early evening light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rock towers in the early evening light © Ricky Yates

Rock towers in the early evening light © Ricky Yates

9 comments to Ceský Ráj revisted

  • Sean Mccann

    Hi Ricky,
    Your photographs certainly do tell the story, they are wonderful. Thank you for posting this return to Cesky Raj. Bohemia obviously escaped the landscape moulding effects of the ‘Ice Ages’ or these fantastic rock formations would have been swept away and turned into ‘boulder clay’ by the power of the glaciers. In Northern and Western Europe almost none of these rock towers survive or only as low, rounded boulders and small knolls. When you consider the timespan required to produce these amazing natural features through erosion and removal of material it certainly puts the insignificant lifespan of humanity both as a species and as individuals in its proper context. Thanks again Ricky.

    • Ricky

      Hi Sean – thank you for the compliments regarding the photos. I agree with you regarding the timespan for the erosion process that created these amazing rock formations. It does put the lifespan of humanity into its proper context.

  • I enjoyed your walk very much, Ricky, and love the photos. The rock towers are truly amazing and left me pondering the geological and meteorological processes involved in their formation. In the three middle photos they reminded me almost irresistibly of gargantuan chessmen. 🙂

    • Ricky

      Glad you enjoyed the ‘virtual walk’ Perpetua. They are eroded sandstone pillars but even being someone who has a first degree in Geography, I’m not exactly sure as to the causes of their formation. However, I do like your description of them as ‘gargantuan chessmen’ 🙂

  • Beautiful — yet another place to add to my “must see” list!

    • Ricky

      Well worth seeing, Stephen. And it is reasonably accessible by public transport from Prague.

  • Looks wonderful! Really looking forward to visiting in August 🙂 I wonder why more tourists don’t know about the beautiful natural sights to see in CZ! But maybe through your blog, people will discover this area (not too far from Prague!).

    • Ricky

      It is wonderful, Cynthia! I’m sure you’ll enjoy Ceský Ráj when you visit in August. It is a mystery why most tourists never get beyond Prague when there is so much to see elsewhere in the CR. The only ones who do are the Germans (as I mention in this post), and also the Dutch.

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