Ricky Yates

My Renault Scenic in the snow, Saturday 6th March 2010 © Ricky Yates

On Monday 1^st March I published a blog post entitled ‘Finally, the snow has melted’ describing how, after seven weeks, the snowfall that started in Prague on Friday 8^th January, had all but disappeared. I’m afraid I spoke to soon.

I took this picture yesterday morning, Saturday 6^th March, which shows my car parked outside the block of flats where we live. It had started snowing during the night and did not cease until early in the afternoon. Since then, the sky has cleared with a temperature of -10 Celsius being recorded at 6am this morning.  Winter isn’t over yet!

My Renault Scenic on Saturday 9th January 2010 after snow had fallen for 24 hours © Ricky Yates

I previously blogged about the heavy snowfall that started in Prague on Friday 8^th January 2010 and continued right through the weekend. The photo on the left shows my car on the Saturday morning after snow had fallen continuously for 24 hours. As I remarked in my more recent post about the visit of the Archdeacon to Prague on the weekend of 30^th-31^st January, most of the snow that fell then was still lying on the ground during his visit. However, after more than six weeks of temperatures almost permanently being below freezing, finally during the past week, a thaw has set in and the snow has gradually melted.

I was warned before moving to the Czech Republic, that I would have to get used to colder continental winters. But nothing could really prepare me for the weather Prague has experienced these last nearly seven weeks. Apparently, this has been the worst winter weather that the Czech Republic has had in 17 years. Towards the end of this long cold spell, even native Czechs were beginning to express their frustration with the extreme nature of the weather.

Despite the lying snow and freezing temperatures, Prague has continued to function. The city authorities have made major efforts to clear roads and pavements and public transport has kept operating with the minimal of delays. Particularly in popular pedestrianized areas in the city centre, snow has been cleared away by loading it into trucks and dumping it out of the way elsewhere. There are still massive heaps of snow along the banks of the River Vltava which are the result of this exercise.

Heap of dirty snow © Ricky Yates

Even in suburban streets, snow has been pushed into piles in order to leave a clear path along the pavement or road. It is mainly these heaps of snow that still have not melted, together with snow lying on north facing slopes which get very little sun.

When snow falls, everything looks beautiful and white. However, as it melts, dirt, litter and scattered street debris is revealed which look highly unattractive. In particular, many dog owners have got out of the habit of cleaning up after their dogs have obliged in the street believing that the snow will cover it up. Now the snow has melted, one has to walk quite carefully in places to avoid stepping in dog s–t. It will be interesting to observe how quickly all of this mess is cleared up.

As well as the marked improvement in the weather, last week was also notable for a number of other things. Both of us had our birthdays which has resulted in our joint ages now totalling one hundred! On the intervening day between our respective birthdays, I paid the last of several visits to the dentist for the fitting of a crown to replace one of my front teeth which I broke at the beginning of February.

Looking ahead, I have an early morning meeting on Wednesday 3^rd March, following which I may be able to write a very interesting blog post. Watch this space!

Chechuv Most, Prague; in the snow © Ricky Yates

Like much of Central and Northern Europe, the Czech Republic has recently experienced extremely heavy snowfall. Here in Prague, it started snowing just over a week ago on Friday 8^th January and continued doing so, almost without interruption, until part way through Monday 11^th January. According to the local media, around 40 centimetres of snow fell during this period, the heaviest snowfall here for 17 years.

Since it has stopped snowing, the weather has been overcast and grey with virtually no sunshine. Temperatures have risen slightly, but have rarely got above zero degrees Celsius, meaning that hardly any of the lying snow has melted. According to the weather forecast I have just looked at, it will start snowing once again tonight and ‘Heavy snow’ can be expected for the next two days!

Phillip in the snow in Mala Strana © Ricky Yates

I was rather worried on Friday 8^th January when it started snowing heavily, as my son Phillip was due to fly in that day from the UK to visit me over the weekend. Knowing that the UK had just experienced its worst snow for nearly thirty years, I had visions of his flight being cancelled, either because it couldn’t take off or because it couldn’t land. Fortunately, East Midlands Airport, which serves the city of Derby where Phillip lives, was less affected by snow than most other UK airports. Therefore his Friday afternoon flight was able to take off without any problems. And because the Czechs are used to dealing with snow, Prague Airport was still open and functioning, allowing his flight to land safely and on time.

I cannot help but contrast the way the UK deals with snow compared to the Czech Republic. As every British person knows, as soon as it snows in the UK, the country grinds to a halt. Last winter in London, snow falling caused the complete cessation of the capital’s bus services. Here in Prague last Sunday, despite two days of continuous falling snow, we travelled by tram from our flat in the north-western suburbs, to Church in the city centre, without any problems whatsoever. Likewise, the few flights to or from Prague Airport that were cancelled over last weekend, were almost all cancelled because of snow problems at other airports, particularly British ones, together with ones in northern Spain, not due to snow problems in Prague.

On Saturday 9^th January, Sybille and I took Phillip on a walking tour of parts of Prague that he hadn’t had the opportunity of exploring on his three previous visits. We took the tram to Prague Castle and then walked down through Mala Strana, the ‘lesser town’ or ‘lower town’, that lies beneath the castle and is full of architectural delights. He was particularly keen to see the Lennon Wall and some of the artwork which lies outside the Kampa Museum alongside the Vltava River.

Phillip in front of the Lennon Wall © Ricky Yates

Father & Son in front of the Lennon Wall © Sybille Yates

I took this series of pictures during our walk last Saturday. I hope they help to convey the beauty and character of Mala Strana, together with Phillip’s enjoyment of his time with us.

Phillip outside the Kampa Museum © Ricky Yates

Phillip, Lion & Beer © Ricky Yates

The French Embassy in Mala Strana © Ricky Yates

We bid farewell to our couchsurfing hosts in Istanbul on the morning of Monday 19^th October and set out on a two day drive to reach Montenegro. Using the older of the two suspension bridges that span the Bosphorus, we crossed into European Turkey and headed out of the city on the motorway that leads to the border with Bulgaria.

Once out of the immediate urban confines of Istanbul, the motorway is subject to toll. On entering the section subject to toll, there is a barrier where you obtain a ticket that shows the date, time and location where you joined the motorway. When you leave the motorway or reach the end of the section subject to toll, you present your ticket at another barrier and pay the appropriate fee. Motorway tolls are collected in the same manner in Serbia and Croatia as they also are in France, Spain and Italy.

However, many other European countries that charge motorists for the use of their motorways do so by means of a ‘vignette’. A ‘vignette’ is a sticker, usually purchased from a roadside shop or garage, indicating that the appropriate road toll has been paid for a certain period of time which can range from a few days to one year. Cameras and random police checks are used to enforce compliance.

Whilst the system is good in principle, it does mean that if you drive in and through as many countries as we have in 2009, you end up with a windscreen full of vignette stickers! Different countries require vignettes to be displayed in different locations on car windscreens meaning that we now have stickers in three separate places!

Vignettes from Slovenia (top left), Switzerland (top right) and Austria (bottom right) © Ricky Yates

Vignettes from Slovakia (left) & Montenegro (right) © Ricky Yates. Although Montenegro has no motorways, a 10 Euro 'environmental charge' has to be paid by all foreign vehicles entering the country.

Vignettes from Czech Republic (left) & Bulgaria (right) © Ricky Yates

On reaching the Turkish-Bulgarian border, we began retracing our steps, travelling the same route across Bulgaria as we had used for our outward journey but in the reverse direction. We continued along this same route in reverse as far as Niš in southern Serbia where we once more stayed overnight. The following day, we ventured into new territory, wending our way across southern Serbia towards Montenegro.

I deliberately chose a route through southern Serbia that avoided passing into Kosovo as the car is only insured to be driven in ‘those parts of Serbia under the control of the government of Serbia’. Our route therefore took us through the mountains of the Kopaonik National Park just north of the Serbia-Kosovo border.

Only three days earlier, we had been experiencing daytime temperatures in excess of 25 degrees Celsius. It had become much cooler ever since passing through a series of thunderstorms as we drove into Istanbul. But as we climbed into the mountains of the Kopaonik National Park, through ever increasingly attractive scenery, the temperature dropped sharply and, much to our surprise, we found ourselves surrounded by the first snowfall of the winter. Fortunately, the road had been cleared which allowed us to cross the mountains, drop down the other side and make our way to the border with Montenegro.

Snow alongside the road through the Kopaonik National Park, Serbia © Ricky Yates