The Vltava River

The Vltava River in central Prague © Ricky Yates

The longest river wholly within the Czech Republic is the Vltava, known to Germans as the Moldau. It rises in the Šumava mountains near the Austrian border and then flows north through the centre of Prague going on further north to join the Labe/Elbe at Melník.

The Vltava was portrayed musically, by the nineteenth century Czech composer Bedrich Smetana, in the second of six symphonic poems that form his symphonic cycle called Má vlast – My Fatherland. Click on this link below and listen to the music whilst enjoying my illustrated guide to the river.

The picture at the beginning of this post is the view most tourist visitors to Prague have of the Vltava, overlooked by St Vitus Cathedral and the walls of Prague Castle. On the river in the foreground, is an ancient paddle steamer, one of the many boats that offer trips on the river through the centre of the city.

The Vltava River seen from Letna Park © Ricky Yates

Above is a view looking upstream from Letna Park. The second of the bridges is the first and most famous crossing of the river – Karluv most/Charles Bridge.

The Vltava River looking downstream from Letna Park © Ricky Yates

And here is a view looking downstream from the same spot, with Cechuv most, the bridge in the foreground.

Karluv most/Charles Bridge © Ricky Yates

Here is a view of Karluv most/Charles Bridge which, until 1841, was the only crossing of the Vltava within the city of Prague.

Ostrov Štvanice/ Štvanice Island © Ricky Yates

This is Ostrov Štvanice/ Štvanice Island – the building located where the river divides is a former small hydro-electric plant. Behind it lies the navigation channel leading to a lock whilst the rest of the river flows over a weir in the foreground.

Dumb barge being pushed upriver © Ricky Yates

The Vltava is still used for the commercial carrying of freight, in particular sand and gravel. Large dumb barges are pushed upriver by powerful tugs.

Podbaba Lock © Ricky Yates

Major engineering works were carried out in the nineteenth century to improve navigation with the construction of locks and new artificial channels to bypass obstructions. This is Podbaba Lock which is located very close to the Chaplaincy Flat where we live.

Loaded dumb barge being pushed upstream above Podbaba Lock © Ricky Yates

And here is a loaded dumb barge being pushed upstream, above Podbaba Lock.

Commercial port at Holešovice © Ricky Yates

Most freight is unloaded here at the wharfs in Holešovice, north-east of Prague city centre.

Pleasue craft moored below Vyšehrad © Ricky Yates

The Vltava is now increasingly used by private pleasure craft, many of which moor here below the ancient citadel at Vyšehrad, south of Prague city centre.

Markers showing past flood levels © Ricky Yates

Beautiful and useful as the Vltava is, like any river, it can overflow and cause serious flood damage. Here is a reminder of past flood levels, reading upwards they mark the floods of 1890, 1845, 1784 and 2002.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Litomyšl

Town Hall in Litomyšl © Ricky Yates

Yet again, I have to start a blog post by apologising for not posting anything here for the past three weeks. My chief excuse is that Sybille & I have been on away on holiday for two of those weeks only returning to Prague last Tuesday (12th) in the afternoon. We’ve spent our time exploring various parts of the Czech Republic with little forays into each of the country’s neighbours – Slovakia, Poland, Austria & Germany. Over the next couple of weeks, I hope to write a series of posts about our travels & introduce readers to the delights of the Czech Republic that lie outside of Prague.

On the evening of Tuesday 28th September, we met my former colleague Rev’d Kathy Ferguson, at Prague airport and brought her to the Chaplaincy flat. Then on the Wednesday morning, I took her on a quick tour of St. Clement’s Church & the Old Catholic’s Communio Centre so she was familiar with both places as she was to spend the next two weeks as my locum priest as well as taking care of Oscar!

Sybille & I left Prague on the afternoon of Wednesday 29th September and initially drove to the small town of Litomyšl which is about 180 km east of Prague. Here we stayed overnight with Steve & Paula, an American couple who had couchsurfed with us in Prague in late July this year & who Sybille also knew through Shutterstock where both she & Steve sell their photographs. Steve had created a wonderful homemade soup as well as a pear cobbler and we feasted on both as part of our evening meal.

Smetanovo námestí in Litomyšl © Ricky Yates






The next morning, we set off to explore the architectural and other delights of Litomyšl. The historic centre is made up of a cobbled ‘square’, (effectively two isosceles triangles whose acute angles meet in the middle), which is surrounded by a series of arcaded buildings. One of the oldest, which dates from the 1640s, is known as ‘The Knight’s House’ and is an excellent preserved example of renaissance burgher housing.

The Knight's House, Litomyšl © Ricky Yates
Statue of Bedrich Smetana, Litomyšl © Ricky Yates




As well as its architecture, Litomyšl’s other claim to fame is being the birthplace of the composer Bedrich Smetana. His statue stands at the far end of the ‘square’ which in turn is named Smetanovo námestí after him.

Sgraffito in Litomyšl © Ricky Yates
Sgraffito in Litomyšl © Ricky Yates

Nearby is a high school building which is decorated with sgraffito, a form of decoration we were to see on many more buildings during our travels.

Chateau at Litomyšl © Ricky Yates

Also nearby is a 16th century chateau, to which additional baroque features have been added, again with sgraffito decoration . Since 1999 it has been part of Unesco’s World Heritage List and it is very easy to see why!

Detail of the sgraffito decoration on Litomyšl Chateau © Ricky Yates
Diving female figure by Olbram Zoubek © Ricky Yates

In the grounds of the chateau and in the nearby monastery garden are various figures, the work of the Czech sculptor Olbram Zoubek. The sculpture pictured here is one of four ladies surrounding a pool into which they are all about to dive.

A wonderful combination of friendly welcoming hosts, a delightful little town, together with pleasant sunny weather made this an excellent beginning to our October holiday in the Czech Republic.