St Mary’s Basilica, Kraków © Ricky Yates
Ever since moving to Prague just over seven years ago, Sybille and I have adopted the view that we should take full advantage of being based in Central Europe, to explore both the Czech Republic beyond Prague, together with neighbouring countries. So earlier this year, we decided that we would spend two weeks of my 2015 annual leave, visiting the Czech Republic’s immediate northern neighbour, Poland.
Whilst Sybille had made a previous brief visit to Poland in the early 1990s, my only experience of the country was through briefly walking over the border from Ceský Tešín with Sybille, in 2010, and when climbing Snežka in 2011. We also briefly drove into Poland when staying in the Orlické hory in 2013.
Our Polish odyssey began last Wednesday 7th October, when we set out to drive from Prague to Kraków. Ironically, although Kraków lies north-east of Prague, the quickest way to get there was to drive south-east on the D1 motorway to the outskirts of Brno before then heading north-east, passing around Ostrava and over the border into Poland.
For the first time in our travels, we used airbnb to find appropriate accommodation. Using their website, Sybille found us a studio apartment within walking distance of the historic centre of Kraków which also had secure parking for the ‘Carly’. We spent two nights staying in the apartment and the intervening day exploring the city.
First we visited Rynek Glówny, the main market square, where the title photograph and the following three photographs were taken.
The Cloth Hall, Kraków © Ricky Yates
Inside the Cloth Hall © Ricky Yates
City Hall Tower © Ricky Yates
Whilst in the square, we witnessed the filming of part of a TV series featuring my namesake, Ricky Gervais, with a drone being used to take pictures, and several ‘heavies’ to keep the crowds at bay!
Filming taking place © Ricky Yates
Exterior of the Dominican Church of the Holy Trinity © Ricky Yates
We also visited Churches belonging to two different Roman Catholic Orders – the Dominicans and the Franciscans. This is the Dominican Church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity. Below is a photograph of part of the reredos within the Church, seeking to illustrate the Trinity, with God the Father portrayed as an old man with a long beard 🙂
Reredos depicting the Holy Trinity © Ricky Yates
Then it was on to the Wawel, the site of Kraków’s Cathedral and Royal Castle.
Kraków Cathedral © Ricky Yates
The Royal Castle © Ricky Yates
Directly opposite the Cathedral was this statue of the late Pope John Paul II. He was Archbishop of Kraków before becoming Pope.
Statue of Pope John Paul II © Ricky Yates
We spent the last part of our day in Kraków, exploring the Kamimierz district, the former Jewish quarter. This area is far less ‘spruced up’ than the other central parts of the city and remains a poignant reminder that around 65,000 Jews from the city of Kraków and the surrounding districts, were murdered by the Nazis during the Second World War.
Jewish Study Centre © Ricky Yates
Hi Ricky,
Your post refreshed memories for us of our visit; hope you had cooler weather, Irish people don’t handle 37 degrees too well! Your photos capture the splendour of the Rynek and Wawel to perfection, both are spectacular and tourist traps of the worst sort! 🙁 Our favourite activity was walking in the ‘Planty’ the linear park which follows the outline of the old city walls – (at least there was shade there) and also visiting Kazimierz. As you say Kazimierz is not as ‘shiny’ as the central touristy areas but the history is visible in every street and alley. You can still sense the horror and the suffering as you walk around the area. Thank you Ricky, thought provoking as ever.
Hi Sean,
Much cooler weather! And almost certainly fewer tourists than you experienced, though both Rynek & Wawel were still fairly busy. Walking around Kazimierz there were relatively few other visitors and as you say, ‘history is visible in every street and alley’.
Looks like a very diverse and compelling visit to Krakow! I have many fond memories of my own visit there. Like you and Sean, I was taken by the Kazimierz district. I also noticed a lack of other tourists there, which was surprising to me. Most importantly, it’s an historically significant place, but it also has Hollywood ties with Oskar Schindler’s factory – and that usually ensures tourists.
I hope you and Sybille had a good Air BnB experience, and that you sent my regards to Mr. Ricky Gervais 🙂
We both thoroughly enjoyed Kraków and maybe should have arranged to stay longer. But there is so much more to see in Poland, off the tourist beaten track. I was surprised at the lack of visitors to the Kazimierz district, especially when so many people go to visit Auschwitz, something we chose not to do.
Our AirBnB experience was mixed. The apartment was fine and well located. But it was only set up for one person with one towel, one pillow & one single duvet, despite Sybille booking it for a married couple. This was rectified for our second night. Also, the promised wifi was so slow & pathetic that its availability should not have been advertised in the first place. There was no way we could give any regards to Mr Gervais because of the presence of several ‘heavies’ 😉
I suppose one of the reasons will be because it isn’t that well known – even I am much more aware of Warszawa than Kraków, where WW2 is concerned.
And now that Schindler was mentioned – the places associated with him in the Czech Republic get practically no tourists! These things are a bit like an avalanche or chain reaction, one particular place taking on more and more importance.
I’m sure the Jewish ghetto in Warsaw is better known, Hana. You’re right – it does often depend on the level of publicity a place receives.
I’m coming shamefully late to the posts about your Polish trip, Ricky, most of which were posted when I was feeling so poorly in the first half of November. Still, I finally made it and can see I’m in for a treat. Your photos are stunning and the architecture is reminiscent of Prague, yet with its own individuality.
One of my most unforgettable memories of my time in Prague is the entire day I spent exploring the Jewish Quarter. As the comment above said, it is history made visible.
Nice to welcome you back, Perpetua! Yes – the architecture is similar to some that you find in Prague, but there is much that is distinctly different. We were lucky with the weather in Kraków which did make taking photos easy – note the blue skies.
A few years back now, Sybille & I spent my ‘day-off’, exploring all the sights in the Prague Jewish Quarter. Kamimierz in Kraków is both less spruced up than the rest of the city & less spruced up than the Jewish Quarter in Prague &, as a result, the sad history hits you even more powerfully.