My final two days of walking through Switzerland, accompanying Sybille on her pilgrimage from Prague to Santiago de Compostela, took us through a series of towns and villages that are predominantly home to people who commute to work in Geneva. Whilst the surroundings became increasingly urban, there were still some attractive stretches of countryside in-between settlements.
On the morning of Tuesday 19th August, we left the Pilger Herberge and walked through the town of Gland, passing under the main Lausanne-Geneva railway line by Gland station. Walking along a series of minor roads, we reached Prangins with this delightful Church at the centre of the village and a peaceful outdoor café where we enjoyed a mid-morning coffee.
Prangins then merges with the much larger town of Nyon which we traversed, parallel to the main railway line, before the chemin took us away to the more peaceful surroundings of the Bois Bougy where we found a bench to sit on whilst we ate our picnic lunch.
The next commune we walked through was Céligny, which is clearly aware that it lies on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques as it features five scallop shells on its coat of arms.
From Céligny, the chemin once more entered woods and fields before arriving at the impressive Château de Bossey, home of the Ecumenical Institute of the World Council of Churches.
Whilst we couldn’t see inside the main building, the chapel was open to visitors. We both smiled when we saw the bookshelves at the back of the chapel with an amazing variety of liturgical and hymn books in several different languages.
We had hoped to stay that evening in Commugny, about four-and-a-half kilometres on from the Château de Bossey, where there was another family who were listed as accueil jacquaire; people who offered overnight accommodation specifically for pilgrims. Sybille tried phoning their number two or three times during the day, but got no answer. We found the house as we entered Commugny, as it is situated right alongside the chemin. But ringing the door bell also received no reply.
So we walked on another couple of kilometres, into neighbouring Tannay where we stopped at a little shop and café and each had a small beer. Whilst we enjoyed our liquid refreshment, we agreed that we would stay in whatever accommodation we next reached when we walked on. Much to our amusement, immediately around the next corner was Auberge Lion d’Or. Our enquiry about the availability of a room received a positive response. It was expensive, but we both agreed that, as it was to be our last night together for three months, we might as well treat ourselves. So we did!
We also enjoyed a splendid evening meal together on the terrace of the Auberge, where I managed to take this photograph of Sybille, checking out something using her tablet, especially bought for her pilgrimage, to enable her to keep in contact with ‘her world’. It also has a Kindle app to which many books have been downloaded, without adding weight to her rucksack 🙂
Although I did get a slightly askance look when I asked for a third cup of coffee 🙂 , breakfast at Auberge Lion d’Or was otherwise fine. Afterwards, we set out on our final day together, walking from Tannay, through Mies, Versoix, Bellevue and Chambésy, to the hillside village of Pregny where we enjoyed a lunchtime drink sitting on the garden terrace of a bar-restaurant.
We visited the village Church before the chemin then began to descend quite steeply and we had this first view across Lac Léman, of the city of Geneva with its famous fountain.
Our actual entry into Geneva was where we had to walk alongside the main Cantonal road for about a kilometre. Sybille suggested I should pose directly under the sign, just to prove I did get there 🙂
Soon afterwards, the chemin took us from the busy road, through a park, to the side of Lac Léman where we ate a late picnic lunch. Then, after taking in my final view of both the lake and the fountain, we walked to the main railway station. There we said farewell to each other. I went to buy my ticket and catch the train to Bern and then on to Langenthal. Sybille walked on through Geneva to the Swiss – French border, some seven kilometres further away.
Very impressive, you two! You definitely deserved that cozy lodging and glass of wine. It amazes me how nonchalantly and peacefully you’ve dealt with finding accommodation – I think not having set plans would be a touch stressful. Thank you for sharing this journey; it’s been so interesting to read about!
I’m glad you’re impressed, Em 🙂 We certainly felt we deserved our evening meal, liquid refreshment and hotel bedroom for our last night together in Tannay.
Whilst on three occasions, it did get a bit stressful in finding somewhere to stay overnight, overall we much preferred not to have a fixed destination each day as the weather and how tired or otherwise we felt, did affect how far we walked each day.
I’m pleased to know you’ve enjoyed reading about our journey & thank you for taking the trouble to leave a comment.
Ricky: Congratulations on making it! A walk well done! (I also am impressed with your peaceful approach to finding accommodations each evening.)
Thank you Stephen, for the congratulations. As for the peaceful approach to finding accommodation each evening, see my reply to Em, the previous commenter.
[…] For those of you that follow me, and now us, on the map, here the stages we did until Geneva and then some of the more special events. Merligen > Einigen > Wattenwil > Schwarzenburg > Tafers > Froideville > Orsonnens > Curtilles > Epalinges > Ecublens > Perroy> Gland > Tannay > Bardonnex. […]
I’m another who likes the idea of no fixed plans or bookings during your fortnight of pilgrimage with Sybille. It must have made a lovely change from everyday life with its appointments and fixed commitments. A most enjoyable series of posts, Ricky.
As I said in reply to Em, Perpetua, whilst it was slightly hairy on two or three occasions, it was much preferable not to have a fixed point we had to get to each day, especially if the weather worked against us or our bodies told us they had had enough. Glad you enjoyed the series of posts & thank you for faithfully commenting on each one of them.
Geneva looks brilliant. I didn’t manage to visit this place on my recent trip last month (though we did pass the Lake Geneva for a short while) but hope to return to Switzerland someday. Really love Switzerland, especially for Lucerne and Jungfrau.
I didn’t really get to explore Geneva, Andrew but you can’t beat its beautiful location. Swiss scenery is amazing – unfortunately, so are Swiss prices 🙁