A walk from Jetrichovice to Srbská Kamenice

The path into the forest © Ricky Yates

 

 

A few weeks ago, I took the bus northwards from Stará Oleška, through Srbská Kamenice, to the southern edge of Jetrichovice. From there, I made my way back to Srbská Kamenice, first following the blue and then the green waymarked routes.

 

The blue waymarked route leaves the road on the left, shortly after the bus stop, where the road goes to the right, zigzagging down to the centre of Jetrichovice. Initially it follows a gravel track which gives vehicular access to several houses, before becoming a footpath, heading into the forest.

 

 

 

 

 

Wayside shrine or Calvary © Ricky Yates

After about one and a half kilometres, there is this wayside shrine or Calvary. It has recently been restored – the little plaque on the tree giving more details, but only in Czech 🙂

Former school in Všemily © Ricky Yates

Shortly afterwards, the path descends into the village of Všemily. On the right is this former school which has been converted into a private house.

The towering peak of Ružovský vrch © Ricky Yates

All along the route, the towering peak of Ružovský vrch is nearly always visible, seen here soon after the route crosses the road through the village and begins ascending the hills on the other side.

First World War memorial in Všemily © Ricky Yates

Slightly further along the path is this First World War memorial, declaring ‘Die Heimat ihren Söhnen‘ – a reminder that until 1918, this area was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and predominantly German-speaking. All of those commemorated have Germanic surnames.

Towering sandstone rock outcrops © Ricky Yates

After passing the village cemetery, the blue waymarked route heads into the forest once again, alongside towering sandstone rock outcrops of which this is one of the best examples.

Grassy path © Ricky Yates

At Pod Borovinou, I finally left the blue waymarked route and turned right onto the green waymarked route, seen here passing through grassland on the edge of the forest.

Concrete bunker built in late 1930s © Ricky Yates

Along this path are two concrete bunkers, built by the Czechoslovak government in the late 1930s, as defences against possible Nazi invasion. I’m planning another blog post with more photographs and background about these structures. However, I have previously written about similar fortifications in the Orlické hory which you can read here.

Descending to Srbská Kamenice © Ricky Yates

The grassy path then gently descends to the northern end of Srbská Kamenice, with Ružovský vrch once more overlooking the scene.

Food & drink at Pension Vesna © Ricky Yates

My walk was completed by walking along the road to the centre of Srbská Kamenice where on this occasion, I patronised the bar-restaurant of Pension Vesna. This was my meal ahead of it being consumed 🙂 Best wishes for the enjoyment of my meal were expressed on the neighbouring window, in the two languages spoken by nearly all visitors. 

Enjoy your meal in Czech & German 🙂 © Ricky Yates

11th November in the Czech Republic

First World War memorial in Zbraslav © Ricky Yates
First World War memorial in Zbraslav © Ricky Yates

Today is Armistice Day, marking the signing of the armistice, ninety-eight years ago, which brought an end to the First World War at the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month. In the USA, it is known as Veterans Day and is kept as a public holiday.

During the First World War, what is now the Czech Republic was still part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire which, together with Germany and the Ottoman Empire, formed the eventually defeated Central Powers. The Czechs were a subjugated people, increasingly seeking much greater autonomy or self-rule. As I explained in my previous post, two weeks before the official end of WW1, the independent new nation state of Czechoslovakia was proclaimed.

Yet despite the rise of Czech nationalism, many Czech people fought and died for an Empire that they didn’t really believe in. In many towns and cities across the country, there are memorials such as this one in Zbraslav, to those who gave their lives in the First World War.

Today is also St Martin’s Day, the Feast Day of St. Martin of Tours. As a fourth century Roman soldier, Martin is said to have cut his military cloak in two and given one half to a scantily clad beggar outside the city of Amiens, to protect him from the freezing weather. Later, after leaving the army, Martin became a monk and hermit, before being made Bishop of Tours in 371.

Here in the Czech Republic, there are numerous traditions associated with St Martin’s Day. There is a Czech saying, ‘Martin prijíždí na bílém koni‘ – ‘Martin is coming on a white horse’, indicating that today is when the first snowfall can be expected. This year in the Czech Republic, Martin came quite early with the first snowfall on the higher mountains some two weeks ago. Even here in Prague, we had our first dusting of snow, twenty-four hours before St. Martin’s Eve.

St Martin = wine & goose :-) © Ricky Yates
St Martin = wine & goose 🙂 © Ricky Yates

Many restaurants offer a St Martin’s special menu which always features roast goose. According to tradition, the association of a goose with St Martin is because he was so reluctant to be ordained a bishop, that he hid in a goose pen, only for his hiding place to be given away, by the cackling of the geese.

The appropriate accompaniment to St Martin’s goose is Svatomartinské vino, a young wine from the recent harvest. This is produced in the vineyards of South Moravia and always becomes available for the first time on 11th November each year. In more recent times it has been marketed in a big way in a similar manner to Beaujolais nouveau.

All that I describe here are examples of the keeping of traditions which are Christian in origin by a now rather irreligious Czech population. The Epiphany door-marking illustrated at the end of this post and referred to in following comments falls into the same category.