The path into the forest © Ricky Yates
A few weeks ago, I took the bus northwards from Stará Oleška, through Srbská Kamenice, to the southern edge of Jetrichovice. From there, I made my way back to Srbská Kamenice, first following the blue and then the green waymarked routes.
The blue waymarked route leaves the road on the left, shortly after the bus stop, where the road goes to the right, zigzagging down to the centre of Jetrichovice. Initially it follows a gravel track which gives vehicular access to several houses, before becoming a footpath, heading into the forest.
Wayside shrine or Calvary © Ricky Yates
After about one and a half kilometres, there is this wayside shrine or Calvary. It has recently been restored – the little plaque on the tree giving more details, but only in Czech 🙂
Former school in Všemily © Ricky Yates
Shortly afterwards, the path descends into the village of Všemily. On the right is this former school which has been converted into a private house.
The towering peak of Ružovský vrch © Ricky Yates
All along the route, the towering peak of Ružovský vrch is nearly always visible, seen here soon after the route crosses the road through the village and begins ascending the hills on the other side.
First World War memorial in Všemily © Ricky Yates
Slightly further along the path is this First World War memorial, declaring ‘Die Heimat ihren Söhnen‘ – a reminder that until 1918, this area was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and predominantly German-speaking. All of those commemorated have Germanic surnames.
Towering sandstone rock outcrops © Ricky Yates
After passing the village cemetery, the blue waymarked route heads into the forest once again, alongside towering sandstone rock outcrops of which this is one of the best examples.
Grassy path © Ricky Yates
At Pod Borovinou, I finally left the blue waymarked route and turned right onto the green waymarked route, seen here passing through grassland on the edge of the forest.
Concrete bunker built in late 1930s © Ricky Yates
Along this path are two concrete bunkers, built by the Czechoslovak government in the late 1930s, as defences against possible Nazi invasion. I’m planning another blog post with more photographs and background about these structures. However, I have previously written about similar fortifications in the Orlické hory which you can read here.
Descending to Srbská Kamenice © Ricky Yates
The grassy path then gently descends to the northern end of Srbská Kamenice, with Ružovský vrch once more overlooking the scene.
Food & drink at Pension Vesna © Ricky Yates
My walk was completed by walking along the road to the centre of Srbská Kamenice where on this occasion, I patronised the bar-restaurant of Pension Vesna. This was my meal ahead of it being consumed 🙂 Best wishes for the enjoyment of my meal were expressed on the neighbouring window, in the two languages spoken by nearly all visitors.
Enjoy your meal in Czech & German 🙂 © Ricky Yates
Wow. Even more determined to visit you at some point
Please do 🙂 🙂 🙂
How long did it take you to walk this (approximately)?
About two & a half hours – Approximately 9 km.
What glorious countryside, Ricky. A walker’s paradise, I’m sure.
It is a walker’s paradise, Kathy. One of the reasons I chose to retire here.
Hello, I just found your blog and I love reading your
thoughts and observations about Czech Republic, especially about North Bohemia.
Welcome to the blog! Glad to know you’ve enjoyed my thoughts and observations about life in the CR. Please keep visiting & commenting 🙂
Fun facts about Všemily: The village doesn’t have a church, that house with bell tower is an old school, that’s why they built the cemetery. There is however St Ignatius Rock Chapel.
I hope that you don’t mind the info-dump. I just love the whole Bohemian Switzerland.
Hello again kiwik! I don’t mind your info-dump at all. I’m always happy to be corrected when I get something wrong and I have accordingly amended the photo caption and the text below it.
When compiling this post, my internet research revealed that there was a rock chapel, dedicated to St Ignatius, located in Všemily. I believe it is somewhere behind the former school. I intend to find it on a future visit.
Hi Ricky: This addition to your blog is wonderful. That area has some outstanding walking. The picture of the meal is making me hungry, glad it is time for tea. Afternoon tea is a tradition we acquired during our many trips to the U.K. Our granddaughter and her parents just returned from a walking and touring holiday in the U.K. They were walking with HF in Sedbergh (sp probably wrong), and they had some wonderful conversations with their fellow walkers(mostly Brits). They were impressed how well read and well versed these walkers were in regard to their history(our granddaughter is a history PhD student in St. Louis, Italian medieval), so she is always interested in the history of other countries. Unfortunately our students are not being taught much of the history of their own country, particularly the history of how the U.S. government is designed to work. thanks again for your blog.
Bob
Hi Bob – Thank you for your kind compliments & for commenting here once again.
I’m glad your granddaughter had a good time walking in the UK & was able to have enjoyable and educative conversations with the people she met. You are not the first well-travelled American that I’ve heard or read making comments about the current poor teaching in US schools of US history & understanding of your constitution.
Hi Ricky,
Yet again I am struck by the openness of the Czech people to the full range of their history as portrayed in that WW1 memorial. Perhaps it is recently erected or renovated, it looks so fresh, but the memory of the men named there must have been kept alive for that to happen. There is always hope where there is a willingness to recognise the experience of the ‘other’ in our midst and accept their presence their even if we disagree with them and their viewpoint. Thank you for including that photograph Ricky.
Hi again Sean! No sooner do I approve and reply to a comment from you and a new one appears 🙂 But many thanks as always, for commenting here. It is much appreciated by me.
I’m almost certain that the WW1 memorial is original but does appear to have been renovated in recent times. It isn’t the only one in the area. There is another similar one which I’ve seen, but which didn’t photograph very well, in Srbská Kamenice itself, across the road from Ve starém kráme. Among the many German people who come to visit this area, are those who are descendants of those expelled in 1945 & who in turn, would be related to those commemorated on these WW1 memorials.