Page 2

Exploring the River Adour in South-west France

Les Gaves Réunis, a tributary of the River Adour, at Hastingues © Ricky Yates

Two & a half months ago at the end of my post entitled ‘A Blogpost about my Blog‘, I declared that I had a couple of future posts that I intended to write. The first, about how I became a hymn book smuggler into the EU, I published a month later. However, I am unsure whether anyone has ever read it as it has attracted zero comments 🙁 Despite that, here finally, is the second promised post.

In late August/early September this year, I travelled from my home in the Czech Republic, to South-west France, for a ten-day holiday. As part of that trip, I explored the course of a river I had first discovered some thirty-eight years earlier – the River Adour. This was a further expression of my continued love of canals and inland waterways of which I have most recently written about here.

The River Adour from the Bay of Biscay to Urt

The Adour is usually navigable for some seventy kilometres from the Bay of Biscay to the city of Dax. But it has no connection to the substantial network of canals and inland waterways in the rest of France. It no longer carries commercial traffic but is used by a variety of pleasure craft. There are no locks and river levels are affected by the rise and fall of the tides.

The River Adour and Pont Henri Grenet in Bayonne © Ricky Yates

Six kilometres inland from the Atlantic coast where the Adour enters the sea, lies the city of Bayonne. Here the river is bridged for the first time by the fairly recent Pont Henri Grenet.

Pont Saint-Esprit, Bayonne © Ricky Yates

And then by the historic Pont Saint-Esprit.

After passing under another road bridge, a railway bridge and further bridge carrying the Autoroute 63, it then follows a straight and wide course eastwards, inland for sixteen kilometres, to the village of Urt.

Bridge over the River Adour at Urt © Ricky Yates

At Urt, the Adour is once more bridged and shortly afterwards, the River Aran, itself navigable for six kilometres, enters the Adour on the right bank.

The River Adour from Urt to beyond Port-de-Lanne & tributaries

The River Bidouze, on the left, entering the River Adour © Ricky Yates

Eight kilometres further on along the Adour, the River Bidouze enters on the right bank.

Quai on the River Bidouze at Bidache © Ricky Yates

This is also navigable for about twelve kilometres to the small hilltop town of Bidache.

Bec du Gave – River Adour to the left, Les Gaves Réunis to the right © Ricky Yates

Two kilometres further on from the confluence with the River Bidouze is Bec du Gave. Here the Adour swings northward to the left, whilst on the right, continuing eastwards, is Les Gaves Réunis, navigable for nearly ten kilometres to just past the town of Peyrehorde.

Modern bridge over Les Gaves Réunis at Payrehorade © Ricky Yates

En route to Peyrehorde, Les Gaves Réunis passes the bastide village of Hastingues from where there is a lovely view down to the river, if you ignore the truck parked in the middle of the road 😉

Les Gaves Réunis from the bastide village of Hastingues © Ricky Yates

Continuing along the Adour, the next point of interest is the village of Port-de-Lanne.

The River Adour from just north of Port-de-Lanne to Dax

Bridge over the River Adour at Saubusse © Ricky Yates

After one further bridge at Josse, the Adour reaches Saubusse where it is crossed by this historic bridge on which only one-way traffic is allowed and with a serious weight limit.

This road sign is a reminder that commercial traffic once used to load and unload here in Saubusse.

In dry summers, Saubusse can sometimes be the limit of navigation. But when water levels are normal, the Adour should be navigable for a further sixteen kilometres to the town of Dax. When I was there in early September, the water level seemed fine though I didn’t see a boat moving on the river above Saubusse.

I would love to be able to cruise the River Adour and its connected waterways. But to do so, one would either need to bring a trail-able craft and launch it at a slipway. Or enter from the Bay of Biscay in a seagoing craft. Unfortunately, I don’t have access to either 🙁 There are no hire-craft, unlike on the rest of the French canal and river network. Maybe a business opportunity that someone is missing 😉

How I became a hymn book smuggler into the EU

Smuggled hymn books in the boot of my car © Ricky Yates

As I posted here a year ago, since May 2023, I have been officiating at a monthly English-language Anglican service of Evening Prayer held on a Thursday evening in the Unterkirche of the Dresden Frauenkirche. This is in addition to the monthly Sunday evening service in the Hauptraum for which I’ve had responsibility since January 2015.

For my monthly Sunday evening service, the Pfarrbüro produce a twelve-page complete Order of Service based on the text I send them at least a week earlier. Hymns are taken from ‘Hymns Ancient & Modern New Standard’, published in 1983, with the melody line of the tune, as well as all the words, reproduced. As I understand it, the Pfarrbüro was given a copy of this hymn book by the late Rev’d Dr Irene Ahrens when the monthly Sunday evening service began in June 2006. I presume that this was the hymn book used by St George’s, Berlin where she was the Assistant Priest.

For the German-language services held on the other three or four Thursdays each month, only a simple four-page folded A4 sheet with limited text, is produced, with hymns being sung from the Evangelisches Gesangbuch, copies of which are kept on a mobile bookcase in the Unterkirche. I was asked whether I could obtain some English-language hymn books so the same procedure could be adopted for my services.

The Church of England’s Diocese in Europe, has a Dresden Fund, which I can tap into for anything that is ‘ministry in Dresden’. So the cost of purchasing hymn books could be covered. But I had two decisions to make. Which hymn book to choose and how to get copies from the UK to Dresden without incurring huge costs.

Two revised and updated editions of Hymns Ancient & Modern (A&M) have been published since ‘New Standard’ was produced forty-one years ago. ‘Common Praise’ was published in 2000 to coincide with adoption by the Church of England of Common Worship, the liturgy in contemporary English. Then in 2013, reverting to the original title, ‘Ancient & Modern – Hymns & Songs for Refreshing Worship’, was published.

I have a music edition of ‘Common Praise’ but have only once briefly seen the A&M 2013 edition when attending a service at Wimborne Minster in April last year where it was in use. So I sent an email to Norwich Books & Music, the umbrella organisation for A&M, asking if they could send me a complete list of all the hymns contained in the 2013 edition. A prompt reply promised to send me a free sampler booklet, produced back in 2013, which included an alphabetical list of all the hymns.

Before Brexit, that sampler booklet would have dropped into my mail box, five to seven days later. But instead, what did drop into my mail box was a registered letter saying that my free booklet was held by Czech Customs in Prague. If I wanted to have it delivered, I needed to pay CZK 334/GBP 11.25/EUR 13.30 in customs duty and to gain customs clearance. Yet another example of the wonderful benefits of Brexit!

Having reluctantly paid up and then studied the sampler booklet, I decided this was the hymn book I wanted to purchase. But my mind boggled as to what customs duties might be levied on twenty-five copies of the melody edition and three full music editions. And of course, there would be legitimate carriage costs too. Therefore I decided that I would become a hymn book smuggler into the EU 😉

I have to say that Norwich Books & Music were extremely helpful and cooperative. They agreed to treat my services at the Frauenkirche as though they were a congregation in the UK, providing five of the melody editions free – I only had to pay for twenty copies. They also happily agreed to deliver them to my son’s home address in Nottingham. And because of the value of the order, delivery within the UK was carriage free.

In July this year, I drove to the UK to visit my children and grandchildren and to spend a most enjoyable week, exploring sites of religious and historic interest in the Northeast of England with a small group, led by my good friend Ken Dimmick. Whilst staying with my son Phillip, I loaded the two boxes of hymn books into the boot of my car.

I returned to continental Europe by overnight ferry from North Shields to IJmuiden in the Netherlands. At Dutch customs, all the officer wanted to know was whether I was importing large quantities of alcohol. I assured him I wasn’t and, after that, I was free to travel onwards with my hymn book booty 😉 It was a pleasure to sing from these hymn books for the first time at my service on Thursday 1^st August.

I’ve written this post to illustrate once again, the absurdity of Brexit and the lengths one now has to go to, in order to mitigate the innumerable problems it has created. Why is it beneficial to the UK for me to be forced to pay CZK 334/GBP 11.25/EUR 13.30 in order to receive a free booklet? Can Boris Johnson, Nigel Farage, the Daily Fail, the Daily Excrement, the Daily Torygraph et al, please explain.

A Blogpost about my Blog

Despite promising to be more regular in writing and posting here on my blog, I must yet again apologise that over four and a half months have past since my last post. However, in the last couple of days, I have discovered that, even if I had written and posted a blog post, almost nobody would have read it. Because if you had put my URL into your browser, you would have received a message saying that it was unsafe to proceed because my website had security issues.

Back in February 2024, I renewed the hosting of rickyyates.com with Namecheap.com. Part of that deal was the provision of an SSL certificate showing that my website was secure. This should have downloaded automatically, but it didn’t 🙁 There was a bug in the system.

Having been alerted to the problem, I eventually contacted Namecheap to ask them to investigate it. This was how I learned about the ‘bug in the system’. To fix it, I had to go into my cPanel, a place I’d never been before, and manually insert my SSL certificate. It took at least six minutes and three clicks on the sync button, before it finally worked, having been assured it would only take one or two minutes.

Unfortunately, that wasn’t the end of the problem. Whilst now, when anyone put my URL into their browser, there was a message acknowledging the SSL certificate, my website was still being deemed insecure because of ‘mixed content’. Apparently, not all of the content on my website had been uploaded from a ‘secure location’. Don’t ask me how that happened!

The help desk at Namecheap suggested that the issue could be fixed by ‘adding a special line to my .htaccess file which locates in the root folder of my domain name at my cPanel’. I wasn’t at all keen to go there again 🙁

But fortunately, they also noted that my blog used WordPress and they suggested two possible WordPress plugins that might also fix the problem. An /ssl-insecure-content-fixer/ . I chose the second suggestion which had many positive reviews, and set about installing it, something I also had never previously done. And I’m very pleased to report that it worked!

My grateful thanks to my good friend & former colleague, Kathy Ferguson, who first alerted me to the problem and has regularly re-tried to go to my website whilst I was working on resolving it and fed back to me the messages she was getting. Therefore a big shout-out for her new blog https://staying-put.blogspot.com/ 🙂

Please let me know, if in future, anyone has an access problem Use email, Facebook Messenger, WhatsApp or even snail mail to contact me. And I do have a couple of future posts planned. One about how I became a hymn book smuggler into the EU and another about my recent trip to SW France.

Comments are most welcome & I will always try to respond to them. At the moment, there isn’t a captcha as it was previously causing difficulties to genuine commenters. But if I get inundated with offers of free Viagra or money making scams, I may have to reintroduce it. Here’s hoping I don’t.

The Ludwig-Donau-Main-Kanal (LDM)

Not only in recent months has there been a relative absence of blog posts here, even when I have managed to put fingers to keyboard, I’ve only usually written about my house, my long argument with Barclays Bank, or my ongoing ministry at the Dresden Frauenkirche. In times past, I’ve often written about my travels, both within and beyond the Czech Republic. This post is my first attempt to return to doing so.

On the weekend of 13^th-14^th April, I spent two nights in Regensburg, breaking my long drive from Stará Oleška to Beatenberg, Switzerland, where I attended the ICS Chaplains Conference – Monday 15^th – Friday 19^th April. On that weekend, my love of canals and inland waterways which I have previously written about here and here, led me to explore what remains of the Ludwig-Donau-Main-Kanal (LDM), deep in the Bavarian countryside.

The LDM was constructed between 1836 – 1846, from Kelheim on the Donau/Danube, about twenty kilometres west of Regensburg, to Bamburg on the River Main, a major tributary of the Rhein/Rhine. It thus crossed the European drainage divide as the Main/Rhein/Rhine flow to the North Sea whilst the Donau/Danube flows to the Black Sea.

Unfortunately, it was never a great economic success for three reasons. Firstly, its locks, of which there were exactly one hundred, had fairly small dimensions meaning that the much larger vessels that traded on the Main and the Donau/Danube, couldn’t pass through it. Goods had to be transhipped onto smaller vessels and it became a bottleneck.

Secondly, there were frequent problems with water supplies to the summit level which delayed through passage.

Thirdly, soon after it was opened, competing railways were built which could move goods more quickly and in greater quantities. The canal consequently lost trade in a similar manner to the narrow canals in the English Midlands.

The LDM Canal suffered considerable damage during the Second World War, especially where it passed through Nürnberg. Post 1945, it was therefore decided not to try and repair the bomb damage and the canal was officially abandoned in 1950.

The LDM Canal commences in Kelheim where it leaves the Donau/Danube. The first lock up from the river is followed by this large canal harbour. Alongside the harbour are signs explaining the history of the LDM. These were erected 2021 as part of celebrating the 175^th anniversary of the canal being opened.

Canal Harbour near Beilngries © Ricky Yates

The next traces of the LDM I found were near the small town of Beilngries, forty kilometres north-west of Kelheim. Here there are the remains of another canal harbour, complete with a crane, but the canal bed is dry.

But a mooring ring is still embedded in the harbour wall.

At Gösselthal, I discovered this quite substantial aqueduct. But as at Beilngries, the canal bed is dry.

LDM Canal in water, near Berching © Ricky Yates

However, from about a kilometre north of the aqueduct, the canal is in water. Sadly, it is blocked in numerous places where road bridges have been dropped, such as immediately behind where I was standing to take this photograph.

This is Lock 26, located just north of Berching which, as you can see, is in good condition.

Canal Harbour at Neumarkt in der Oberpfalz © Ricky Yates

Whilst further north, in the larger town of Neumarkt in der Oberpfalz, there is another Kanalhafen/Canal harbour.

Stop gates on the LMD Canal near Oberölsbach © Ricky Yates

My last discovery, before returning to Regensburg on the Autobahn, was near the village of Oberölsbach. These are what I believe to be a set of stop gates, allowing a section of canal to be drained.

According to my map, the LDM Canal is in water, all the way from here to the outskirts of Nürnberg. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to explore any further on this occasion 🙁 Within Nürnberg, post-1945 development has eliminated the line of the canal, whilst north of the city, the construction of Autobahn 73 has completely flattened it. But I believe there are some traces near to Bamburg, including Lock 100, which connects the canal to the River Regnitz which then flows into the River Main. One day visiting Bamburg is on my ‘bucket list’ 🙂

From 1960 to 1992, the Rhein-Main-Donau Canal (RMD) was constructed between Kelheim and Bamburg. Between Kelheim and Dietfurt, a few kilometres before Beilngries, the River Altmühl has been canalised by the building of three locks.

Kelheim Lock on the RMD Canal © Ricky Yates

Here is the first lock, just outside Kelheim. As you can see, the RMD Canal has been built with large locks that vessels that ply both the Donau/Danube and the Main can pass through. The LDM also canalised the same section of the Altmühl, but with thirteen locks.

Small pleasure craft leaving the lock at Kelheim © Ricky Yates

However, alongside the new large lock at Kelheim, there is also a much smaller one for pleasure boats to pass. I was lucky to see this little boat pass through.

After Dietfurt, the RMD Canal takes a more westerly route to Nürnberg and on to Bamburg, than the LMD Canal. And in place of the one hundred locks on the LMD, there are only sixteen on the RMD.

House renovation – the next stage

The little un-renovated ground floor room © Ricky Yates

As I entitled my previous post, ‘The renovation of the ground floor of my house is just about complete‘. But there are two important little phrases in that title – ‘just about’ and ‘ground floor’. And those two phrases are connected.

The photograph on the left shows the one little ground floor room to which nothing has been done, (other than me vacuuming up all the cobwebs before taking the photo 😉 ), hence ‘just about’. And there remain two rooms in the roof space to which also nothing has been done, hence I wrote ‘ground floor’.

Please note, I didn’t say ‘upstairs’, in describing the two rooms in the roof space. Because that is the problem, there are no stairs, only a drop down loft ladder that you can see in the last photo of my previous post. If those two rooms are to be used as guest bedrooms, then there has to be an internal staircase which would allow any guests to have access to a toilet, shower and washbasin, without having to descend a ladder into my study-bedroom.

What I envisage and hope might be possible, is to install a staircase, starting in the little un-renovated room, and going up and round to the right, through the ceiling. It would then require some alteration and extension to the roof at the rear of the house.

One of the two rooms in the roof space © Ricky Yates

As you can see, before anything can happen, I first will have to sort out the contents of the boxes in the photo above. Most of them are books which will hopefully all fit on my newly installed book shelves. So far, four boxes have come down the ladder and been unpacked. However, there are at least ten more to go. At the bottom of the photo, you can just see down into my study-bedroom. I was standing part way up the loft ladder in order to take the photo.

The other room in the roof space © Ricky Yates

The photo above shows the other ‘upladder room’, with the double bed waiting for visiting guests to sleep in it 🙂 My suggested staircase would enter this room at the far left corner.

When I retired from Prague and moved to live in Stará Oleška 44, I thought it would take me about two years to get the ground floor how I wanted it to be. Instead, it has taken nearly seven years 🙁 My offer to buy the house was accepted on 14^th March 2017 and I moved in some two months later.

It is my sincere hope that it doesn’t take me another seven years to complete what I’ve outlined in this post. But first I need to find an architect or structural engineer to discover whether what I want to do is actually feasible.