Ceský Ráj revisted

Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates
Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates

 

 

 

 

Last Friday, during my post-Easter break, I explored the Hruboskalsko, another part of Ceský Ráj, a beautiful area of sandstone rocks and forests lying between 70-100 kilometres north east of Prague. Having parked my car in a designated parking area near the village of Pelešany, I made my way to join the red waymarked trail. This trail is designated the Zlatá Stezka or ‘Golden Trail’, so called because if you were to walk the whole of it, you would see all the best sights within Ceský Ráj.

 

After an initial climb, the trail brought me to this rock tower at Hlavatice. In the early years of the twentieth century, the local walking club erected a spiral iron staircase consisting of thirty-six steps, which allows access to the top of the tower……

 

 

 

 

….from where there is this splendid view of the nearby town of Turnov.

Turnov as seen from the top of the Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates
Turnov as seen from the top of the Hlavatice rock tower © Ricky Yates

A further two kilometre walk brought me to Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle, originally built to take full advantage of the defensive qualities provided by the rocky outcrop on which it is situated.

Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle © Ricky Yates
Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle © Ricky Yates
Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle from below © Ricky Yates
Hrad Valdštejn/Valdštejn Castle from below © Ricky Yates

During April, the castle is only open to the public on weekends, so being Friday, it was closed. However fortunately, the neighbouring Hospoda was open!

'The Castle Pub!' © Ricky Yates
‘The Castle Pub!’ © Ricky Yates
Pive?ko © Ricky Yates
Pivecko © Ricky Yates

Following liquid refreshment, I walked on through the beautifully forested landscape with some spectacular views of amazing rock towers. I’ll let the photographs do the talking.

Amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates
Amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates
More amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates
More amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates
Still more amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates
Still more amazing rock towers © Ricky Yates

I eventually reached Hrubá Skála, where there is a large hotel, built onto the remains of an earlier castle.

Hotel at Hrubá Skála © Ricky Yates
Hotel at Hrubá Skála © Ricky Yates

There is an access road up to the hotel from the valley below. Two large German tourist buses were parked outside the hotel and a third pulled up a couple of minutes later. Clearly the hotel gets good business from elderly German tourists, revisiting the Heimat 🙂 I beat a hasty retreat!

Rock tower © Ricky Yates
Rock tower © Ricky Yates

 

 

 

 

 

I made my return journey along the yellow waymarked route from where there are further views of more rock pillars. This one on the left I thought was particularly spectacular whilst those in the photograph below, look very dramatic in the early evening light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rock towers in the early evening light © Ricky Yates
Rock towers in the early evening light © Ricky Yates

Ceský Ráj

The view from Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates
The view from Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates

 

 

 

 

Ceský Ráj, which literally translates into English as ‘Czech Paradise’ or ‘Bohemian Paradise’, is beautiful area of sandstone rocks and forests lying between 70-100 kilometres north east of Prague. Yesterday, on my first proper day-off for about a month, I took an 18 km walk through the western edge of Ceský Ráj, starting and finishing in the small town of Mnichovo Hradište.

After walking four kilometres from Mnichovo Hradište railway station, crossing the railway line, the Prague – Liberec motorway and then open fields, I reached the small village of Zásadka, which lies at the foot of the rocks. Here I enjoyed a traditional Czech lunch of Smažený sýr a hranolky, accompanied 0.5l of Svijany beer. Thus fortified, I set off further along the red waymarked route.

 

 

 

 

 

Valecov Castle © Ricky Yates
Valecov Castle © Ricky Yates

My walk first took me past the ruins of Valecov Castle, originally built to take full advantage of the sandstone rock towers on which it is situated.

Path between rocks © Ricky Yates
Path between rocks © Ricky Yates

Then the path went between further rock outcrops……

Path through the forest © Ricky Yates
Path through the forest © Ricky Yates

…and along forested valleys. My apologies for the sky being ‘blown out’, (as photographer Sybille would describe it 🙂 ), but there was such a contrast between the shade provided by the trees and the very bright Autumn sunshine.

View from Klamorna © Ricky Yates
View from Klamorna © Ricky Yates

A short detour from the path, took me to this viewpoint at Klamorna…..

Looking down to the village of Dneboh © Ricky Yates
Looking down to the village of Dneboh © Ricky Yates

..looking down to the village of Dneboh below.

Shortly afterwards, I reached a series of rock pillars known as Drábské svetnicky.

Inaccessible rock outcrop © Ricky Yates
Inaccessible rock outcrop © Ricky Yates

Some are inaccessible…..

Viewpoint at Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates
Viewpoint at Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates

..whilst others are connected by a series of bridges, steps and ladders.

The blue route - note the waymark on the right © Ricky Yates
The blue route – note the waymark on the right © Ricky Yates

My return journey was along the blue waymarked route, which passed through this gap in the rocks.

This walk was my first wearing my new walking boots. They proved extremely comfortable except that I gained one blister on the back of my left heel. May that be the first and only one!

Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates
Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates