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A visit to Coventry Cathedral

The foundation stone of Coventry Cathedral © Ricky Yates

My apologies for not publishing anything new here for just over three weeks. There are two main reasons for this.

The first is that I’ve been continuing my promised ‘Summer clean’, now ‘Autumn clean’, of the Chaplaincy Flat – see my answer to question three in this earlier post. The latest place to receive my attention has been the kitchen. Every cupboard has been emptied, shelves and door-fronts cleaned, crockery and glassware which hasn’t been used for a long time, has been put through the dishwasher, and numerous foodstuffs well past their ‘use-by dates’, have been quietly disposed of. And then there was the cooker hood, the oven……

The second reason is that I spent the week from Tuesday 28^th October – Monday 3^rd November, in the UK, visiting my new grandson and his parents, and slightly belatedly celebrating my son Phillip’s thirtieth birthday. Whilst in the UK, I also re-visited the city where I was born and spent the first eighteen years of my life – Coventry, and in particular, Coventry Cathedral.

The laying of the foundation stone of the new Coventry Cathedral by HM Queen Elizabeth the Second on 23^rd March 1956, is the earliest memory that I have. For as well as laying the foundation stone that day, the Queen, along with the Duke of Edinburgh, also visited the Jaguar Car factory in Browns Lane, the street where I lived until I was ten. Thus, the royal motorcade drove past our house twice – first on its way to the factory and then the later return journey. At the time, I was just four years old and didn’t recognise the Queen on the first occasion she passed by, as I was looking for a lady with a crown on her head 🙂

Czechoslovak carved wooden crucifix © Ricky Yates

Sadly, since I last visited nearly ten years ago, an entrance charge of £6.00, (recently reduced from £8.00), has been introduced for the new Cathedral, unless someone just wishes to pray or attend a service. The friendly lady on the reception desk kindly asked me if I had come to visit or to pray, to which I replied, “Both!” When I further explained, aided by my business card, that I was the Anglican Chaplain in Prague, originally a native of Coventry and that I had contributed six old pence towards one of the nave windows, her response was, “Well I’d better then let you in for free!”

I was very pleased to discover within the new Cathedral, a Czech connection of which I was previously totally unaware – this carved wooden crucifix. The adjacent notice in the photograph below, explains about the artist who created it and gave it to the Cathedral.

Explanation of the Czech Cross © Ricky Yates

Chapel of Christ in Gethsemane © Ricky Yates

Other parts of the Cathedral were just as I remember them. One that I find particularly moving is the small side chapel of Christ in Gethsemane. The mosaic illustrates the prayer of Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane, “Take this cup of suffering from me”. Yet the chapel is screened by an iron grill in the shape of a crown of thorns, a reminder that Jesus was obedient to his Father’s will.

However, much as I like the new Cathedral, it is the ruins of the original mediaeval Cathedral – what remains following its destruction by Hitler’s incendiary bombs on the night of 14^th November 1940, that speak most powerfully to me.

'Father Forgive' © Ricky Yates — ‘Father Forgive’ © Ricky Yates

As I explained in a post in May 2012 when I appeared on Czech TV to speak about the fiftieth anniversary of the consecration of the new Cathedral, not long after the bombing raid that destroyed so much of the mediaeval Cathedral, the Provost made a cross from two of the charred roof beams and erected it behind the altar and had the words. ‘Father forgive’ carved on the east wall of the old sanctuary.

For me, this is such a powerful symbol of the Christian message of reconciliation. Reconciliation between God and humankind – but also, reconciliation between nations and peoples who have previously been at war with each other. Therefore, I end this post with the words of the Coventry Cathedral Litany of Reconciliation.

‘All have sinned and fallen short of the glory of God.

The hatred which divides nation from nation, race from race, class from class,

Father Forgive.

The covetous desires of people and nations to possess what is not their own,

Father Forgive.

The greed which exploits the work of human hands and lays waste the earth,

Father Forgive.

Our envy of the welfare and happiness of others,

Father Forgive.

Our indifference to the plight of the imprisoned, the homeless, the refugee,

Father Forgive.

The lust which dishonours the bodies of men, women and children,

Father Forgive.

The pride which leads us to trust in ourselves and not in God,

Father Forgive.

Be kind to one another, tender-hearted, forgiving one another, as God in Christ forgave you’.

The ruins of the original mediaeval Coventry Cathedral © Ricky Yates

Another insight into Czech life and culture

The rocks and forests of the Czech countryside © Ricky Yates

Yesterday, I officiated at the burial of ashes of two people, a husband and wife, into the family grave. Whilst this is something I would quite regularly do when Rector of a group of North Oxfordshire villages, this was the first time of doing so in just over six years of ministry here in the Czech Republic. I have also only conducted four funerals during that time, a reflection of the predominantly young age of the English-speaking expatriate population resident here.

However, although I conducted yesterday’s graveside service in English, it was very much a Czech occasion and was an illustration of several aspects of Czech life and culture. And because I want to protect the privacy of the family, I hope readers will forgive me for not referring to people or exact locations by name.

The existing family grave is located in the massive Olšanské Cemetery that lies in the Prague suburb of Žižkov. Whilst the cemetery is well-maintained by the local authority, like so much of Czech officialdom, it is not managed to encourage the practice of religious faith. Two things illustrated this.

The first was the attitude of the two cemetery staff who were present when we arrived at the grave. Whilst the grave had been opened and the appropriate hole dug, in true Czech bureaucratic style, the only thing that mattered to them was thoroughly checking the paperwork brought by the next of kin, the son of the deceased. Once they were convinced that the paperwork was in order, they just left us to it with a, ‘we’ll be back later to fill in’.

The second was the complete lack of provision for me. There was no chapel or vestry where I could robe & leave my belongings securely. Instead, aided by the eldest grandson of the deceased, who kindly held various things for me, I robed standing alongside a bench adjacent to a path running behind the family grave.

I have previously written about the Czech love of flowers which helps to keep innumerable flower shops and stalls in business. This love was very clearly in evidence with every family member arriving with a bunch of fresh flowers to lay on the grave. And I mean everybody, right down to the six great-grandchildren of the deceased.

However, it was what followed the graveside service which struck me as being so much part of Czech culture. The service was at 11.00 in the morning, so afterwards, everyone who attended was invited back to lunch. But lunch was not at the family flat in Mala Strana where I’d met the next of kin the previous day. Nor was it at a restaurant, not so far from the cemetery. No – we were all transported over thirty kilometres out of Prague into the Bohemian countryside, to a large three storey house – the family chalupa.

The house was built in the early 1930s, in a time that is now always referred to as ‘the First Republic’, when Czechoslovakia was an independent state between 1918-1938. The deceased couple were responsible for having it built.

The history of the house reflects the history of the nation. During the Second World War, when the country was occupied by the Nazis, there was a German military base nearby, so the house was commandeered to house a senior Nazi military officer. Then, following the communist coup of February 1948, the family were confined to the basement whilst the two floors above were occupied by others. Even after the Velvet Revolution of 1989 and the subsequent restitution of property laws, the family allowed a remaining ‘tenant’ to live in part of the house, until her death in the mid 1990s.

The son of the deceased gave a speech in which he recalled his childhood weekends and summer holidays, spent living in the basement and sleeping in a wooden ‘summer house’ in the garden. They were memorable times, despite the deprivation of the communist era.

And although he and his parents escaped to Switzerland in 1968, when he was in his late teens, and he, along with his wife and three of their four children, now live in England, this house in the Bohemian countryside is still the family home. Here, where his elderly uncle still lives, is where the soul of the family resides and was the only place where the lives of his late parents, who both lived into their nineties, could be properly celebrated.

The story of this family, could be told with some variations, by so many Czech families. The story also reflects the psyche of the wider Czech nation – that deep down Czech people believe that the soul of the nation is found in the forests, rivers and lakes of the Czech countryside. Even whilst we were eating our lunch yesterday, Má vlast, ‘My Country’ or ‘My Fatherland’ by Bedrich Smetana, was being played in the sitting room, music that encapsulates that very concept.

A little change for the better

The photograph on the left, shows the top of the organ in Kostel sv Kliment/St. Clement’s Church, as it was until August 2014, and as it had been for all of the previously nearly six years I’ve been Chaplain to the English-speaking Anglican congregation in Prague. At the centre of the picture is a mirror on a stand, to enable the organist to see beyond the front wall of the balcony, and know what is going on at the front of the Church – in particular, to know when to stop playing once the administration of Communion is complete.

But because the mirror stand is not sufficiently high, it has been propped up on three music and four words editions of our hymn book. Over that time, I have often observed this set up and thought how wasteful it was. We didn’t buy these hymn books to prop up a mirror – we bought them so people could sing from them to the praise and glory of God! And as in early 2012, I transferred three music and fifteen words editions of our hymn book permanently to Brno, for our congregation who worship there, the misuse of these books has become an ever more acute issue.

The problem has always been knowing what would be a suitable replacement for the mirror to sit on. In particular, knowing the correct dimensions – the required height, together with the length and breath of the base of the mirror stand. I always observed the problem just before, or following, Sunday worship. Therefore, my mind was inevitably on other things and I never have a measuring tape with me.

However, just over two months ago, I finally got around to measuring what was required. Then, when on a visit to IKEA, I spotted a little box storage unit, costing CZK 300, (less than £10.00 at current exchange rates), with the correct dimensions. The current value of the hymn books propping up the mirror, is £111.00. I bought the box!

Just as it took me nearly six years to solve this problem, so it has taken me over two months to finally complete this blog post and publish it. But in both cases, I did eventually get there 🙂

Ceský Ráj

The view from Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates

Ceský Ráj, which literally translates into English as ‘Czech Paradise’ or ‘Bohemian Paradise’, is beautiful area of sandstone rocks and forests lying between 70-100 kilometres north east of Prague. Yesterday, on my first proper day-off for about a month, I took an 18 km walk through the western edge of Ceský Ráj, starting and finishing in the small town of Mnichovo Hradište.

After walking four kilometres from Mnichovo Hradište railway station, crossing the railway line, the Prague – Liberec motorway and then open fields, I reached the small village of Zásadka, which lies at the foot of the rocks. Here I enjoyed a traditional Czech lunch of Smažený sýr a hranolky, accompanied 0.5l of Svijany beer. Thus fortified, I set off further along the red waymarked route.

My walk first took me past the ruins of Valecov Castle, originally built to take full advantage of the sandstone rock towers on which it is situated.

Then the path went between further rock outcrops……

……and along forested valleys. My apologies for the sky being ‘blown out’, (as photographer Sybille would describe it 🙂 ), but there was such a contrast between the shade provided by the trees and the very bright Autumn sunshine.

A short detour from the path, took me to this viewpoint at Klamorna…..

Looking down to the village of Dneboh © Ricky Yates

…..looking down to the village of Dneboh below.

Shortly afterwards, I reached a series of rock pillars known as Drábské svetnicky.

Some are inaccessible…..

Viewpoint at Drábské svetnicky © Ricky Yates

…..whilst others are connected by a series of bridges, steps and ladders.

The blue route - note the waymark on the right © Ricky Yates — The blue route – note the waymark on the right © Ricky Yates

My return journey was along the blue waymarked route, which passed through this gap in the rocks.

This walk was my first wearing my new walking boots. They proved extremely comfortable except that I gained one blister on the back of my left heel. May that be the first and only one!

The 2014 Eastern Archdeaconry Synod in Prague

St. Clement's Anglican Episcopal Church, Prague © Ricky Yates — St. Clement’s Anglican Episcopal Church, Prague © Ricky Yates

As I explained at the end of my post about the 2013 Eastern Archdeaconry Synod, the Prague Anglican Chaplaincy volunteered to host the 2014 Synod meeting. It was held last week between Thursday 25^th – Sunday 28^th September and I have to say that I’m still recovering from the experience!

In agreeing to host the Synod meeting in Prague, I wanted to overcome two issues. Firstly, long-standing Synod members had told me that when the Synod had last met in Prague, during the time of my predecessor, it had been held in a suburban hotel and attendees had felt rather isolated from the heart of the city. Secondly, when being solely based in a hotel, for example as we were in Izmir in 2009 and Athens in 2012, worship has to take place in part of a conference room which always lacks the atmosphere of a church or chapel.

So with the support of my Church Council, I decided that we would host the Synod meeting using the facilities of our host Kliment congregation of the Ceskobratrská církve evangelické, that we use week by week. All worship could therefore take place in Church with our various sessions for Bible Study, talks, reports and business meetings being held in the hall on the third floor of Klimentská 18 that we use for post-Eucharistic Coffee Hour during the colder months of the year. Then, with several nearby hotels, I was sure we could negotiate suitable accommodation for everyone attending the Synod.

Eventually, this is what I was able to organise, though not without a few pitfalls along the way. One problem I encountered was that the hall in Klimentská 18, was already booked by another organisation for part of Friday 26^th September which meant we had instead to use the Church for three of our sessions. Far greater problems were caused by people sending in bookings long after the specified date for doing so, or wanting to make last minute changes to bookings. As I said on numerous occasions, organising a meeting of the Eastern Archdeaconry Synod, ought to come with a serious health warning!

It was pleasing to have many positive responses to both the location and the way the Synod meeting was organised. MOODs Hotel, Klimentská 28, provided comfortable, high quality accommodation and the friendly staff and wonderful food received many appreciative comments. My thanks to Lenka, the reservations manager, and Mojmír, who masterminded the various meals.

Equally appreciated was being able to use the Church for all our acts of worship. And with the Diocesan Secretary, who is an excellent organist, being present for part of the Synod meeting, we were able to sing hymns as part of our Friday lunchtime Communion service and at Evening Prayer on both Friday and Saturday.

We enjoyed three challenging and extremely well prepared Bible Studies, led by Canon Leonard Doolan, Vicar of Cirencester. He came on the recommendation of Canon Malcolm Bradshaw, Senior Chaplain in Athens, a recommendation that was fully vindicated by the quality and method of presentation used by Leonard. As one who is constantly giving out week by week, it is always good to receive fresh spiritual input.

Our new Diocesan Bishop, Rt Rev’d Dr Robert Innes, joined us late on Friday afternoon, flying in, along with his Chaplain Canon Meurig Williams, from Palermo where they had been attending the Italy and Malta Archdeaconry Synod. A bit of poor planning meant that the two meetings slightly overlapped. He acknowledged that our Archdeaconry that covers Central and Eastern Europe, together with Turkey, was part of his diocese about which he knew little and was very keen to learn more.

Bishop Robert addressed the Synod meeting on Saturday morning, explaining a little about his background, what he had been doing since being consecrated as a bishop in Canterbury Cathedral on Sunday 20^th July, and how he envisages his episcopate. But as well as answering questions, he was keen to hear from the Synod members about what issues they would like to see addressed as he begins to formulate strategic priorities for our far-flung Diocese in Europe.

As is always the case, some of the most valuable time at our residential Synod meetings is that spent over meals or late night drinks, enjoying social interaction with colleagues and leading lay people who often only see each other this one time a year. The Saturday evening was deliberately left free so people could do this and get out and enjoy Prague at the same time.

Synod members at Bar-Restaurace Pod Juliskou © Ricky Yates

I gave an invitation to any who would like to join me in having a meal at one of my favourite bar-restaurants near to where I live, Restaurace Pod Juliskou, and ended up being accompanied by one third of the Synod attendees, including Bishop, Bishop’s Chaplain and Archdeacon. It did give the bar-restaurant staff who know me well, a bit of a shock when I brought in thirteen guests!

The Synod meeting ended with all the attendees joining the regular St. Clement’s congregation for our Sunday Sung Eucharist at which Bishop Robert was the celebrant and preacher. It was a wonderfully joyful service with good music and great congregational singing. Bishop Robert preached a challenging sermon, interspersed with some humour, which you can listen to here on our Church website. Then, masterminded by Ata, the Synod members were provided with a splendid lunch with some Iranian flavours.

Standing between my new Bishop Robert Innes & my long-standing Archdeacon Patrick Curran, along with from l to r, Bishop's Chaplain Meurig Williams, Area Dean & Chaplain of Greater Athens Malcolm Bradshaw, and my Reader Jack Noonan © Ricky Yates — Standing between my new Bishop Robert Innes & my long-standing Archdeacon Patrick Curran, along with from l to r, Bishop’s Chaplain Meurig Williams, Area Dean & Chaplain of Greater Athens Malcolm Bradshaw, and my Reader Jack Noonan © Ricky Yates