Ceský Ráj, which literally translates into English as ‘Czech Paradise’ or ‘Bohemian Paradise’, is beautiful area of sandstone rocks and forests lying between 70-100 kilometres north east of Prague. Yesterday, on my first proper day-off for about a month, I took an 18 km walk through the western edge of Ceský Ráj, starting and finishing in the small town of Mnichovo Hradište.
After walking four kilometres from Mnichovo Hradište railway station, crossing the railway line, the Prague – Liberec motorway and then open fields, I reached the small village of Zásadka, which lies at the foot of the rocks. Here I enjoyed a traditional Czech lunch of Smažený sýr a hranolky, accompanied 0.5l of Svijany beer. Thus fortified, I set off further along the red waymarked route.
……and along forested valleys. My apologies for the sky being ‘blown out’, (as photographer Sybille would describe it 🙂 ), but there was such a contrast between the shade provided by the trees and the very bright Autumn sunshine.
My return journey was along the blue waymarked route, which passed through this gap in the rocks.
This walk was my first wearing my new walking boots. They proved extremely comfortable except that I gained one blister on the back of my left heel. May that be the first and only one!
As I explained at the end of my post about the 2013 Eastern Archdeaconry Synod, the Prague Anglican Chaplaincy volunteered to host the 2014 Synod meeting. It was held last week between Thursday 25th – Sunday 28th September and I have to say that I’m still recovering from the experience!
In agreeing to host the Synod meeting in Prague, I wanted to overcome two issues. Firstly, long-standing Synod members had told me that when the Synod had last met in Prague, during the time of my predecessor, it had been held in a suburban hotel and attendees had felt rather isolated from the heart of the city. Secondly, when being solely based in a hotel, for example as we were in Izmir in 2009 and Athens in 2012, worship has to take place in part of a conference room which always lacks the atmosphere of a church or chapel.
So with the support of my Church Council, I decided that we would host the Synod meeting using the facilities of our host Kliment congregation of the Ceskobratrská církve evangelické, that we use week by week. All worship could therefore take place in Church with our various sessions for Bible Study, talks, reports and business meetings being held in the hall on the third floor of Klimentská 18 that we use for post-Eucharistic Coffee Hour during the colder months of the year. Then, with several nearby hotels, I was sure we could negotiate suitable accommodation for everyone attending the Synod.
Eventually, this is what I was able to organise, though not without a few pitfalls along the way. One problem I encountered was that the hall in Klimentská 18, was already booked by another organisation for part of Friday 26th September which meant we had instead to use the Church for three of our sessions. Far greater problems were caused by people sending in bookings long after the specified date for doing so, or wanting to make last minute changes to bookings. As I said on numerous occasions, organising a meeting of the Eastern Archdeaconry Synod, ought to come with a serious health warning!
It was pleasing to have many positive responses to both the location and the way the Synod meeting was organised. MOODs Hotel, Klimentská 28, provided comfortable, high quality accommodation and the friendly staff and wonderful food received many appreciative comments. My thanks to Lenka, the reservations manager, and Mojmír, who masterminded the various meals.
Equally appreciated was being able to use the Church for all our acts of worship. And with the Diocesan Secretary, who is an excellent organist, being present for part of the Synod meeting, we were able to sing hymns as part of our Friday lunchtime Communion service and at Evening Prayer on both Friday and Saturday.
We enjoyed three challenging and extremely well prepared Bible Studies, led by Canon Leonard Doolan, Vicar of Cirencester. He came on the recommendation of Canon Malcolm Bradshaw, Senior Chaplain in Athens, a recommendation that was fully vindicated by the quality and method of presentation used by Leonard. As one who is constantly giving out week by week, it is always good to receive fresh spiritual input.
Our new Diocesan Bishop, Rt Rev’d Dr Robert Innes, joined us late on Friday afternoon, flying in, along with his Chaplain Canon Meurig Williams, from Palermo where they had been attending the Italy and Malta Archdeaconry Synod. A bit of poor planning meant that the two meetings slightly overlapped. He acknowledged that our Archdeaconry that covers Central and Eastern Europe, together with Turkey, was part of his diocese about which he knew little and was very keen to learn more.
Bishop Robert addressed the Synod meeting on Saturday morning, explaining a little about his background, what he had been doing since being consecrated as a bishop in Canterbury Cathedral on Sunday 20th July, and how he envisages his episcopate. But as well as answering questions, he was keen to hear from the Synod members about what issues they would like to see addressed as he begins to formulate strategic priorities for our far-flung Diocese in Europe.
As is always the case, some of the most valuable time at our residential Synod meetings is that spent over meals or late night drinks, enjoying social interaction with colleagues and leading lay people who often only see each other this one time a year. The Saturday evening was deliberately left free so people could do this and get out and enjoy Prague at the same time.
I gave an invitation to any who would like to join me in having a meal at one of my favourite bar-restaurants near to where I live, Restaurace Pod Juliskou, and ended up being accompanied by one third of the Synod attendees, including Bishop, Bishop’s Chaplain and Archdeacon. It did give the bar-restaurant staff who know me well, a bit of a shock when I brought in thirteen guests!
The Synod meeting ended with all the attendees joining the regular St. Clement’s congregation for our Sunday Sung Eucharist at which Bishop Robert was the celebrant and preacher. It was a wonderfully joyful service with good music and great congregational singing. Bishop Robert preached a challenging sermon, interspersed with some humour, which you can listen to here on our Church website. Then, masterminded by Ata, the Synod members were provided with a splendid lunch with some Iranian flavours.
Five weeks ago today, I returned to Prague after spending a wonderful two weeks accompanying Sybille on her pilgrimage from Prague to Santiago de Compostela, walking with her across Switzerland. Since returning, I have successfully written and posted seven blog posts about our journey together. A big ‘Thank you’ to the faithful few who have left kind and appreciative comments on these recent posts.
The evidence of how far we walked can be seen by state of the soles and heels of my much loved walking boots. In the last couple of days of walking, I did slip slightly in a few muddy places, because of the increasing lack of tread. I also discovered that the waterproof cover, integral to my rucksack, was unfortunately no longer waterproof 🙁 . I have now invested in a new pair of walking boots, though I’ve yet to test them out over any serious distance. And I will buy a new, separate waterproof cover for my rucksack as, despite being twelve years old, it is otherwise still in good order.
Two other major things have happened since returning to Prague. On Tuesday 2nd September, I paid another visit to my dermatologist at Vojenské nemocnice, the Military Hospital. Unfortunately, one Basel Cell Carcinoma (BCC) on the right side of my forehead had, despite numerous treatments with liquid nitrogen, refused to disappear. So we mutually agreed that the only way forward was to have it cut out under local anaesthetic.
What then followed speaks volumes for the efficiency of the Czech Health Service. Armed with a brief report from my dermatologist, I went straight-away to the plastic surgery department in another nearby building. There, without an appointment, the surgeon quickly examined the BCC and promptly gave me an operation date of Wednesday 10th September – just eight days later.
The operation on Wednesday 10th September, despite being under local anaesthetic, was a bit more major than I was expecting. I was grateful that I’d accepted the kind offer of my friend Rev’d Dr Karen Moritz, to accompany me to the hospital. This is how I looked following the operation – Karen being responsible for taking the photograph! Fortunately, when I returned to the hospital the next day for a follow-up visit, the head bandage was replaced by a large sticky plaster which I was able to remove the next day.
The wound was pulled together by six stitches, the last two of which, were only removed on Monday of this week. But the good news is that the histology report, whilst confirming that what was removed was a BCC, also said that it was completely removed – it was clear around the edges. I now have a return visit to the dermatologist booked for the middle of October.
Then on Monday 22nd September, the day I had the last of my stitches removed, came the news that my daughter Christa, had gone into labour with her first child. Later in the evening came word from my son-in-law Ian, that I had become a grandfather for the first time, following the birth of my grandson Finley.
Because of breathing and other difficulties, Finley was immediately taken to the Special Care Baby Unit of the hospital in Northampton. But as this picture below, taken yesterday, shows, Christa and Ian were finally able to hold their newborn son for a short while. The latest news is that they hope to be able to take Finley home this weekend. I’m hoping to meet my grandson for the first time at the end of October when I’m visiting the UK for a few days.
My final two days of walking through Switzerland, accompanying Sybille on her pilgrimage from Prague to Santiago de Compostela, took us through a series of towns and villages that are predominantly home to people who commute to work in Geneva. Whilst the surroundings became increasingly urban, there were still some attractive stretches of countryside in-between settlements.
On the morning of Tuesday 19th August, we left the Pilger Herberge and walked through the town of Gland, passing under the main Lausanne-Geneva railway line by Gland station. Walking along a series of minor roads, we reached Prangins with this delightful Church at the centre of the village and a peaceful outdoor café where we enjoyed a mid-morning coffee.
Prangins then merges with the much larger town of Nyon which we traversed, parallel to the main railway line, before the chemin took us away to the more peaceful surroundings of the Bois Bougy where we found a bench to sit on whilst we ate our picnic lunch.
The next commune we walked through was Céligny, which is clearly aware that it lies on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques as it features five scallop shells on its coat of arms.
From Céligny, the chemin once more entered woods and fields before arriving at the impressive Château de Bossey, home of the Ecumenical Institute of the World Council of Churches.
Whilst we couldn’t see inside the main building, the chapel was open to visitors. We both smiled when we saw the bookshelves at the back of the chapel with an amazing variety of liturgical and hymn books in several different languages.
We had hoped to stay that evening in Commugny, about four-and-a-half kilometres on from the Château de Bossey, where there was another family who were listed as accueil jacquaire; people who offered overnight accommodation specifically for pilgrims. Sybille tried phoning their number two or three times during the day, but got no answer. We found the house as we entered Commugny, as it is situated right alongside the chemin. But ringing the door bell also received no reply.
So we walked on another couple of kilometres, into neighbouring Tannay where we stopped at a little shop and café and each had a small beer. Whilst we enjoyed our liquid refreshment, we agreed that we would stay in whatever accommodation we next reached when we walked on. Much to our amusement, immediately around the next corner was Auberge Lion d’Or. Our enquiry about the availability of a room received a positive response. It was expensive, but we both agreed that, as it was to be our last night together for three months, we might as well treat ourselves. So we did!
We also enjoyed a splendid evening meal together on the terrace of the Auberge, where I managed to take this photograph of Sybille, checking out something using her tablet, especially bought for her pilgrimage, to enable her to keep in contact with ‘her world’. It also has a Kindle app to which many books have been downloaded, without adding weight to her rucksack 🙂
Route from Gland to Tannay 19km
Although I did get a slightly askance look when I asked for a third cup of coffee 🙂 , breakfast at Auberge Lion d’Or was otherwise fine. Afterwards, we set out on our final day together, walking from Tannay, through Mies, Versoix, Bellevue and Chambésy, to the hillside village of Pregny where we enjoyed a lunchtime drink sitting on the garden terrace of a bar-restaurant.
We visited the village Church before the chemin thenbegan to descend quite steeply and we had this first view across Lac Léman, of the city of Geneva with its famous fountain.
Our actual entry into Geneva was where we had to walk alongside the main Cantonal road for about a kilometre. Sybille suggested I should pose directly under the sign, just to prove I did get there 🙂
Soon afterwards, the chemin took us from the busy road, through a park, to the side of Lac Léman where we ate a late picnic lunch. Then, after taking in my final view of both the lake and the fountain, we walked to the main railway station. There we said farewell to each other. I went to buy my ticket and catch the train to Bern and then on to Langenthal. Sybille walked on through Geneva to the Swiss – French border, some seven kilometres further away.
After a good night’s sleep and an excellent breakfast, we bid farewell to the Jordan family and walked the 1.5km back from Ecublens, to St-Sulpice Church, in order to rejoin the Chemin de Saint-Jacques. En-route, we were able buy bread for our picnic lunch. After the rain of the previous afternoon, the morning of Sunday 17th August was fine and sunny. Not that we knew it then, but the previous day’s rain was the last wet weather were to experience whilst walking together.
From St-Sulpice to the larger town of Morges, the Chemin is almost exclusively along the shore of Lac Léman. Just occasionally, the path goes slightly inland, where somebody long ago managed to claim ownership of the lake shore, or to avoid a lakeside yacht club. Whilst we saw no fellow pilgrims, the way was busy with joggers and cyclists, all out for their weekend exercise.
This was our view of Morges as we walked towards the town with the Church on the right and the castle to the left.
We arrived at the town’s Swiss Reformed Church, soon after the end of Sunday morning worship. The congregation were enjoying post-service coffee and biscuits to which we were warmly invited to participate. Several people spoke to us in French and one older gentleman, in fluent English.
This is a view of the interior of the Church. Whilst it is very much in the Protestant tradition with the pulpit centrally placed, it was interesting to see the use of liturgical colours with a green frontal for the Holy Table, (I’d better not call it the altar 🙂 ), and a similar one for the lectern. I think it reflects a greater interest than in the past amongst many Protestants, of valuing and marking the liturgical year. In another Swiss Reformed Church, I saw a chart explaining the traditional colours for the complete liturgical year!
The whole of this day, we had wonderful views across Lac Léman to a snow-covered Mt Blanc. I had great difficulty in choosing which of my many photographs, to use in illustrating this post 🙂
Further along the lake shore, adjacent to the castle, there was a musical fête in progress with various barrel organs playing and in this case, accompanied by a Swiss horn.
This is Morges Castle. Note the yellow waymarking sign, attached to the pole with the tourist information sign.
Soon after walking out of Morges, the Chemin leaves the lake shore for a while before returning once more in the attractive small town of St-Prex where we ate our picnic lunch.
After lunch, the next settlement we walked through was Buchillon where we spotted this sign on the side of a house. Sybille had by then already walked over a thousand kilometres but now she had less than two thousand to go!
By now we were walking through one of the main wine producing areas of Switzerland with south facing slopes going down to the shore of Lac Léman, covered in rows of vines. During our time together, we enjoyed many glasses of Swiss white wine, all of which were most quaffable. You very rarely find bottles of Swiss wine outside of Switzerland itself, no doubt because the Swiss drink it all themselves 😉
Our route also took us across this bridge with the volume of water passing underneath being indicative of the heavy rainfall that Switzerland had experienced in the previous weeks.
Late in the afternoon, the chemin once more passed along the lake shore where there was a bar-restaurant, a couple of kilometres short of the village of Perroy. We stopped for a ‘cool glass of something’ and decided that we ought to start trying to find somewhere to stay for the night. There were a couple of B and B possibilities in Perroy on Sybille’s accommodation list. But when Sybille phoned to enquire, one was fully booked whilst her other call received no answer.
From the bar-restaurant on the lake shore, we walked uphill to the centre of the village of Perroy, and realised from reading various notices and the imposition of temporary parking restrictions, that over that weekend, the village was en-fête. We had arrived in the middle of an event which only happens once every four years – the celebration of the Abbaye de Perroy.
As was explained to us, the Abbaye was formed in the mid-nineteenth century as a local defence force but is now a glorified gun club who hold a shooting competition in August, once every four years, followed by a weekend of celebrations. The most successful shooters get to wear laurel wreaths on their heads and to be accompanied by attractive young ladies, as you can see if you follow this link to the one photograph from this year’s event which is so far up on their website.
We watched this grand parade through the village and were then invited, because we were passing pilgrims, to a reception on the terrace behind the Mairie where we were served complimentary glasses of wine with several varieties of local delicacies to nibble.
Meanwhile, the band played on the terrace. And you cannot beat the view from the terrace! Sybille successfully found the village mayor and asked him if the Mairie had accommodation for pilgrims, as historically had been the custom. No it didn’t was his answer, but he told her that a nearby restaurant had rooms that we could try. However, with the village being en-fête, these were inevitably fully occupied.
So having enjoyed our wine and nibbles, but with nowhere to stay the night in Perroy, we walked on 2km to the edge of the larger town of Rolle. Here there was a campsite – but it didn’t have any cabins to let. Nearby was a sign for a hotel – but it was now defunct. Just as we were trying to decide what on earth to do, Sybille’s phone rang. It was the B and B in Perroy who had picked up on Sybille’s missed call from about three hours earlier. Yes her room was available. So we walked two kilometres back up the hill to Perroy Church, where our hostess picked us up in her car and took us to her home.
After a comfortable night’s sleep and an excellent breakfast, we walked back down the self-same hill we had walked up and down the previous evening, into the town of Rolle. Here once more for a short while, the Chemin was alongside the shore of Lac Léman, and past this splendid castle.
Then it was slightly more inland, through the long village of Bursinel, where this plaque informed us that none other than Winston Churchill had holidayed in the village, only a year after the end of the Second World War.
Around 13.30, we reached the outskirts of the town of Gland. Here we knew there was a Gîte pour pèlerins/Pilger Herberge, specifically for pilgrims which, as you can see, was very clearly signposted. Although we had only walked for half a day, Sybille was keen to stay here. The door was locked, but a notice gave three phone numbers to ring. The third number answered and we were given a numeric code to key in, to open the door.
Once inside, Sybille declared it to be ‘Pilgrim heaven’. As well as a dormitory with eight beds, a shower and a toilet, there was a kitchen with cooking utensils and all necessary plates, cutlery, cups and glasses. There was wifi – the access code was on the noticeboard. But best of all, there was a washing machine and a drying machine.
After we had both showered and changed, we took full advantage of the washing machine. Sybille just wore the bare minimum for the rest of the afternoon – three items of clothing – so she could wash everything else she had with her. We didn’t need the drying machine as there were clothes racks and pegs, with the breeze and the sunshine doing the rest. Whilst our clothes were drying, we walked for twenty minutes to the nearest supermarket and bought things to cook an evening meal, along with appropriate liquid refreshment.
Later in the evening, as she had promised earlier on the phone, the hospitalera arrived to register us and to collect the very reasonable CHF 10 per person for staying overnight, plus CHF 2 for using the washing machine.
