Christmas in Prague & Brno 2012

Mary, Joseph and the infant Jesus © Ricky Yates
Mary, Joseph and the infant Jesus in Námestí miru, Prague © Ricky Yates

Much as I dislike Christmas being brought forward into the Advent season, working with two expatriate congregations here in the Czech Republic means this inevitably has to happen. So many of our regular worshippers are absent at Christmas because they travel back to their respective home countries in order to spend the holiday season with their family and friends. But before setting off on their travels, many want to be able to participate in the Anglican tradition of a ‘Service of Lessons & Carols’, either in Prague or Brno.

Since commencing regular monthly services in Brno at the beginning of 2012, we have consistently held them on the second Sunday evening of each month. So it seemed right to make the service due on Sunday 9th December, a ‘Service of Lessons & Carols’, a year on from our first ever Brno service in December 2011. And to be further consistent, we held the service in the little Czechoslovak Hussite Church Betanie / Bethany we have been using throughout 2012, rather than returning to the Betlémský Kostel / Bethlehem Chapel where we held the first ever Brno service.

Brno Carol Service invitation
Brno Carol Service invitation

This year’s service was very much a home-grown one, rather than being laid on by members of the Prague congregation. But I was most grateful to my Church Treasurer Gordon Truefitt, who kindly volunteered to travel down with me to Brno following our 11.00 Eucharist in Prague, to give me both company and support. Gordon read a couple of the lessons, sang ‘gold’ in our rendition of ‘We three kings of Orient are’, and as a good treasurer, also took up the collection!

Gordon and I drove down to Brno in my car as I’ve been doing each month since July. Outside of Prague, there was snow on the fields which looked particularly beautiful in the late afternoon sunshine. However, the Prague- Brno motorway itself was completely clear of snow and we reached Brno in very good time. Following the service and some excellent post-service seasonal refreshments kindly laid on by Katka Bánová, Gordon and I returned to the car with light snow falling. But as we left Brno and headed back towards Prague, so the snow got heavier.

Both Prague and Brno lie in river valleys – Prague is on the Vltava River whilst Brno is situated at the confluence of the Svratka and Svitava rivers. But whilst the Vltava flows into the Labe which becomes the Elbe once over the German border, and eventually enters the North Sea, the waters of the Svratka and Svitava head in the opposite direction, eventually entering the Danube which flows out into the Black Sea. Dividing these two major drainage basins are the Vysocina range of hills.

Crossing these hills, the outside temperature dropped from -2° to -6° and the snow got thicker and heavier. Despite the presence of several snow ploughs, one of which nearly tried to clear me from the motorway 🙁 , driving became extremely difficult. Numerous trucks had ground to a halt, unable to cope with climbing up the steeper parts of the motorway. I cannot recall driving in such severe weather conditions for more than thirty years. We did eventually make it back to Prague still in one piece. But a journey that normally takes just over two hours, instead took three and a half hours.

Christmas Tree in Staromestské námestí / Old Town Square © Ricky Yates
Christmas Tree in Staromestské námestí / Old Town Square, Prague © Ricky Yates

The following weekend, we held our Prague ‘Service of Lessons & Carols’ on the evening of Sunday 16th December. This is the only occasion each year when we hold two services on a Sunday in Prague. Inevitably, some people therefore opt out of the morning Eucharist in order to attend Lessons & Carols in the evening. However, both services were still well supported.

In the evening, we were joined by a small choir from the International Women’s Association of Prague (IWAP). Two of the choir members, Caroline and Celieta, are also regular members of our congregation. But the IWAP choir did give a wonderful lead to our congregational carols as well as contributing two individual choir items. Afterwards, we all enjoyed mulled wine, mince pies and other seasonal refreshments in the Church Hall across the road from the Church in Klimentská 18.

I remarked last year, that Christmas Day falling on a Sunday, as it did in 2011, was ‘Every clergyperson’s delight’. But because of this year being a leap year, Christmas Day in 2012 fell on a Tuesday. This is probably best described as ‘Every clergyperson’s nightmare’ as it meant Church services on three successive days. However, this is where I really benefited from the help and support of others.

On Sunday 23rd December, the Fourth Sunday of Advent, my recently licensed Reader Jack Noonan was the preacher at our 11.00am Eucharist, reflecting on the example and role of Mary, the mother of Jesus. And at our Midnight Eucharist the following day – Christmas Eve, my Presbyterian ministerial colleague Rev’d Dr Karen Moritz was the preacher, giving an exposition of the mystery of the Incarnation as described in John 1. 1-14. So I only had to preach one sermon, on Christmas Day morning, speaking about the message of the angel to the shepherds – ‘to you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, who is the Messiah, the Lord’.

Whilst having two supportive preachers made my role easier, I did still experience one of those moments for which no training at theological college can ever properly prepare you. At our Midnight Eucharist on Christmas Eve, a British lady, visiting her son who has been living and working in Prague for the past five years, tripped over the chancel step on her way up to receive Communion and fell, seriously banging her head on the stone slabs of the chancel floor.

Fortunately, Sybille as a trained nurse was on hand to help and Honza, Czech husband of American Church Council Secretary Tasci, got on his mobile phone and was promptly able in Czech, to summon an ambulance. But I decided it was best to end the service without singing the final carol, (much to the confusion of the organist who was unaware of what had happened), and within a few minutes, blue lights were flashing outside the Church and two paramedics were striding in.

The good news is that, following a medical examination and an x ray, the lady was given the all clear by a Doctor at a nearby hospital. But she did take home an unusual souvenir from Prague in the form of a large bruise on her forehead 🙁

Our worship on the morning of Christmas Day was thankfully, slightly less eventful. The congregation was a mixture of visitors, long-standing Church members, and several Czech married to English-speaker families with their bilingual children. Therefore, although we are an English-speaking congregation, we did end our worship by singing a carol in Czech, ‘Narodil se Kristus Pán‘ – ‘Christ the Lord is born, let us rejoice’.

Nativity in gingerbread © Ricky Yates
Nativity in gingerbread © Ricky Yates

The Expats Blog Awards 2012 – Bronze Award for the Czech Republic

blog-award-2012-czech-republic-bronzeFurther to my previous post, yesterday was judgement day for the ExpatsBlog.com Awards 2012 for the Czech Republic. And I came third – I got the Bronze Award.

I am very grateful to everybody who took the trouble to follow the link in my previous post and ‘left some love’ for my blog in the comment box. I shall say something about those kind comments a little further into this post. There were also, a number of people who promised to go there and leave a comment, but who never did – sigh 🙁 Whilst the number of positive comments was not meant to be the only criteria by which blogs were judged, it is noticeable that the two blogs which finished ahead of me were the two that also got more comments than me.

The winner of the Gold Award was Christopher’s Expat Adventure. Chris is an American who was relocated to Brno a few years ago by his employer IBM. He has taken full advantage of being based in Central Europe to travel widely and, in his blogposts, always gives some interesting background details about each country he visits. He frequently explains the size of a country by relating it to one of the American states – for example ‘Sweden is slightly larger than California’. I do think this is a good idea, especially as I presume a sizeable part of his readership is American, many of whom will have never set foot outside of the USA as 80% of Americans don’t hold a passport.

Chris also writes about his social life and how things differ between the Czech Republic and the USA. He is also good at explaining aspects of Czech culture and history. A recent post was very informative about why there is a Greek community here, something I had only become aware of recently during a conversation I had with a Czech young lady sat next to me on my Prague-Geneva flight in late September.

However, I couldn’t help but note that two of the positive comments were from people who admitted that ‘Chris is my boss’. It did make me wonder how many other of his underlings left comments as a result of an in-house memo 😉 But joking aside – congratulations Chris on your Gold Award.

The Silver Award went to a fellow Brit who blogs as Girl in Czechland. GIC is a young lady who met her ‘Czechman’ whilst he was living and working in the UK. When he decided to return to his native country, GIC moved to Czechland with him, about a year after I moved to Prague.

GIC or Ms Girlová, writes both articulately and humorously of her life here in the Czech Republic. Her posts about visiting the ‘Village People’, her descriptive title for Czechman’s family who live in the Bohemian countryside, are one of the hilarious highlights of her blog.

I’ve been a fan and follower of ‘Girl in Czechland’ from the blog’s very early days and have recommended it to numerous other expats and English-speaking Czechs. I honestly thought Ms Girlová would win the competition and regard it as no disgrace to finish one place behind her. And yes, I do know her true identity, (we’ve met on several occasions), but I do promise not to reveal it – honest!

As promised earlier, I want to say a few more words about the twenty-three comments/reviews my blog received. Those of you who wrote were extremely kind in what you said, describing my writing as, ‘funny, interesting, insightful, informative, warm, incisive, well-written, balanced, smart, eloquent, entertaining and detailed’. It’s left me feeling quite overwhelmed and, if I’m honest – embarrassed.

Several comments were also complimentary about my photographs which I also appreciated. And with regard to content, my frequent examples of that wonderful language I call Czenglish, are clearly enjoyed by many of my readers. I’m sure I’ll have more to share with you in 2013! Who knows? They might just help me win silver or gold, next time around 🙂

Fame at last! – The Expats Blog Awards 2012

A spire with wires & lights in Prague © Ricky Yates

I’m not very good at ‘blowing my own trumpet’. I am still amazed that this blog currently gets an average of 70 hits a day and that in less than four years, I’ve written and published 205 posts. But clearly many people enjoy reading what I write and I’m grateful to everyone who kindly leaves comments on what I’ve posted here.

However, a few weeks ago, I received a most surprising email. In fact I was so surprised by what the email said, that it’s taken me some time to initiate appropriate follow-up action. For the email kindly informed me that, “’Ricky Yates – an Anglican in Prague’, has been nominated for the Expat Blog Awards 2012”. As you can see from the badge displayed at the top right-hand corner of my home page, this is now deemed to be a ‘Top Blog’.

One of the judging criteria as to whether I will receive the Gold, Silver or Bronze award, or am just deemed to be an ‘also ran’, will be the comments left on my blog listing at expatsblog.com. Therefore if you enjoy my blog and think it deserves a little recognition, please click on this link, scroll down past the details of my last five posts, the ‘Top Blog’ logo and the existing comments, and in the box below, ‘leave some love’ for my blog.

Please understand that I’m not doing anything underhand by asking you to do this. The competition judges have specifically requested that those bloggers nominated, encourage their loyal readers to leave comments – hence this post 🙂 Please don’t delay – the competition will be judged on 16th December & comments will be closed 24 hours beforehand. Therefore, you have only a little over two weeks to post a few kind words about my blog before the opportunity passes.

Rest assured that I won’t let all of this go to my head. But just occasionally, it is nice to be appreciated 🙂

Berlin

The Brandenburger Tor/Brandenburg Gate © Ricky Yates
The Sony Centre, Potsdamer Platz © Ricky Yates

The Brandenburger Tor/Brandenburg Gate lies at the heart of the Historic Mitte/Historic Centre of Berlin. It was the backdrop to the events of 9th November 1989 that unfolded on television screens around the world and to which several people have made reference in their comments on my previous post about the Berlin Wall. As can be seen in my photograph above, it has now been fully restored to its former glory and it is hard to imagine the concrete panels of the Wall dividing east from west, that used to run directly in front of it.

A short distance south of the Brandenburg Gate is Potsdamer Platz, which until the Second World War, was the bustling heart of the city. Post 1945, it lay in ruins and was then divided by the Wall. Since reunification of the two German states in 1990, Potsdamer Platz has been completely redeveloped and now more resembles Manhattan than a European capital city. The photograph on the left is of the Sony Centre with its spectacular steel and glass roof. Below are pictured three skyscrapers which would not look out of place on the New York skyline.

 

 

Skyscrapers at Potsdamer Platz © Ricky Yates
Holocaust Memorial © Ricky Yates

In between the Brandenburger Tor/Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz is the Denkmal für die Erdemordeten Juden Europas, usually known simply as the Holocaust Memorial. Finally opened in May 2005, after many years of debate regarding its design and construction, the 2711 sarcophagi-like columns that rise up in silence across undulating ground, commemorate the Jewish victims of the Nazi-orchestrated genocide of World War Two.

The security controlled entrance  for the official opening of the memorial to Sinti & Roma victims of the Nazi regime © Ricky Yates

It is often forgotten or not even realised by many people today, that Jews were not the only victims of the Nazis. Just across the road from the Holocaust Memorial, in the edge of the Tiergarten, there is now a small memorial to Homosexuals who were also victims of the regime. And on our third day in Berlin, a new memorial, also located in the Tiergarten, commemorating Sinti and Roma victims, was officially opened by Chancellor Angela Merkel. The picture above is the nearest we could get to it due to understandable security restrictions being in place. But you can see it and read more about it, in this BBC News report.

The Reichstag © Ricky Yates

The reunification of Berlin has allowed the restoration of older buildings which had been in disrepair for many years. This is the Reichstag, home of the German parliament until seriously damaged by fire in mysterious circumstances in 1933. It suffered further damage during World War Two. With the decision to move the capital of a united Germany back to Berlin, the Reichstag underwent a complete reconstruction led by the British architect Norman Foster. After its completion in 1999, the building once again became the meeting place of the Bundestag, the lower house of the German parliament.

Berlin Hauptbahnhof © Ricky Yates

However, some buildings have been transformed and are now hardly recognisable from their pre-1945 appearance. A good is example is the main railway station – Berlin Hauptbahnhof.

Alexanderplatz © Ricky Yates

East Berlin was the capital of communist controlled East Germany. Inevitably here, you can still find plenty of examples of severe communist era architecture. This is Alexanderplatz, created during the 1960s and rightly described as ‘soulless and without trees’ by our guidebook. This despite post-unification attempts to temper the socialist look with a few small trees in the distance!

Communist era housing in East Berlin © Ricky Yates

Nearby, I photographed this classic example of communist era housing, still looking horribly drab.

The Olympiastadion/Olympic Stadium © Ricky Yates

Dating from a different era, this is the Olympiastadion/Olympic Stadium, built in 1936 as a showcase for Hitler’s Nazi Germany. In more recent years, it has been modernised, specifically for the Football World Cup Finals in 2006. It is also the home of Hertha Berlin, the city’s leading football club.

One thing Sybille was very keen to do whilst we were visiting the German capital, was to enjoy a Berlin culinary speciality – a Currywurst. Here she is, experiencing her first Currywurst for many years with appropriate liquid refreshment 🙂

Sybille enjoying her first Currywurst for many years © Ricky Yates

The Berlin Wall

A preserved section of the Berlin Wall © Ricky Yates

It is more than a little ironic that Berlin’s most popular tourist attraction, for the most part no longer exists! For 28 years, the Berlin Wall symbolised the Cold War and the division of Europe between the democratic and capitalist west, and the communist one-party states of the east, even if the communists did try to proclaim themselves as ‘democratic’ with the official name of the former East Germany being the Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR).

Construction of the wall began shortly after midnight on 13th August 1961 when thousands of East German soldiers and police rolled out massive lengths of barbed wire, cutting streets in two and preventing East Germans from travelling into West Berlin. Shortly afterwards, the barbed wire was replaced with a wall made of concrete slabs.

The Berlin Wall was a desperate measure by the East German communists, to stem the population flow from east to west which had seen 3.6 million Germans migrate between the foundation of the DDR in 1949, and the wall being erected in 1961. If the population drain had been allowed to continue, it would have soon brought the DDR to a point of economic and political collapse.

Although very euphemistically entitled the ‘Anti-Fascist Protection Barrier’ by the DDR authorities, it was rapidly reinforced on the East German side with the area behind the wall being cleared, trenches dug, barbed wire fences put in place, and a further inner wall, the Hinterlandmaurer, built on the other side to enclose the intervening death strip. Floodlighting at night and watch towers manned by trigger-happy guards were put in place to try to ensure no one escaped from the ‘communist paradise’ of the DDR 😉

Crosses commemorating individuals who lost their lives trying to cross the Berlin Wall © Ricky Yates

Many people did still try to escape, some successfully but many were killed or died in the process. This is one of several memorials commemorating some of the victims.

Old East German watchtower © Ricky Yates

The demise of the Berlin Wall came almost as quickly as its creation twenty-eight years earlier. In the Autumn of 1989, the DDR once more started losing its people in large numbers as Hungary opened its border with Austria. Demonstrations and demands for reform grew quickly within the DDR and on 9th November 1989, the communist authorities bowed to the inevitable and announced on DDR television that all restrictions on travel to the west would be lifted immediately.

Crowds gathered at various checkpoints along the Wall that evening, eventually overwhelming the border guards by their sheer weight of numbers. People started to dance on top of the wall whilst others began to attack parts of it with sledgehammers, chipping away pieces of concrete as souvenirs. Over the following months, large sections were demolished and removed.

Today, other than a few preserved sections such as that in the photograph at the beginning of this post, there is very little left of of the Berlin Wall and its associated fortifications. This former East German watchtower pictured here, sits slightly incongruously in a side street near Potsdammer Platz. In the meantime, the two city halves have visually merged making it difficult to discern whether one is in the East or the West.

Other short sections of the Wall have been preserved, including the remains of artwork or graffiti, (depending on your point of view 🙂 ), with which West Berliners decorated their side of the wall, with explanatory boards placed in between, explaining the history of the Berliner Maurer. The example in the photograph below is located on the line of where the Wall once stood, also not far from Potsdammer Platz.

Preserved sections of the Berlin Wall with explanatory boards © Ricky Yates
The double row of cobblestones marking the former course of the Berlin Wall © Ricky Yates

 

In recognition that visiting tourists will want to know where the Berlin Wall once stood, a double row of cobblestones has been placed showing the line of its former course.

Since the collapse of the Berlin Wall and subsequent German reunification, the derelict area between the original Wall and the Hinterlandmaurer, has been prime land for redevelopment. Some older, often war-damaged buildings located in or adjacent to the ‘security strip’ have been renovated and restored, whilst elsewhere, completely new construction has taken place.

The picture below shows an area of the ‘security strip’ just south of the Brandenburg Gate. On the right, in the foreground of the photograph, is one corner of the Holocaust Memorial about which more in text and pictures in a future post. Immediately beyond are a series of newly-constructed cafés and restaurants, where even in late October when we visited, it was still possible to sit at outside tables.

However, the apartment blocks beyond the cafés and restaurants are located in the former East Berlin and were built by the communist regime post-1961. They are colloquially known as Luxusplatte – luxury flats, but still built in the typical communist manner using concrete panels. Only very faithful Communist Party members were allowed to live in them, that is only those who could be trusted not to try to escape to the west, because they lived so close to the Wall 😉

 

Part of the redeveloped former ‘security strip’ with Luxusplatte beyond © Ricky Yates

One of the buildings that lay within the former ‘security strip’ was that which housed the British Embassy until the breaking off of diplomatic relations at the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939. The building itself was subsequently badly damaged by allied bombing. When the newly reunited Germany once again made Berlin its capital city in 1999, the British government decided to rebuild its embassy on the same site with the new building pictured below, being officially opened by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on 18th July 2000.

The British Embassy in Berlin © Ricky Yates