North Bohemia – Page 12

A walk above Kanon Labe

The Labe river flowing towards Germany, where it becomes the Elbe © Ricky Yates

On Saturday 1^st September, a group from my former congregation at St Clement’s Anglican Episcopal Church, Prague, are travelling by train to Decín, for me to take them on a guided walk through the Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area where I now live. This post is both an account of my research for that walk and is also aimed at giving the prospective participants, a taster of what they can look forward to experiencing 🙂

The walk starts in the village of Ludvíkovice, which lies between Decín and Stará Oleška. From outside the Post Office, where I parked my car, I then walked into the forest a short way, to join the red waymarked route that comes up from Decín and is part of the E3 European long distance path. Heading north and climbing steadily for about 1.5km, the path arrives at the first spectacular viewpoint, Vyhlídkové místo.

This is the view looking north with the Labe river flowing towards Germany, where it becomes the Elbe.

The view looking south, back towards Decín © Ricky Yates

Whilst this is the view looking south, back towards Decín.

View from Vyhlídkové místo © Ricky Yates

Slightly further on, there is second viewpoint, also called Vyhlídkové místo 😉 , from where the full extent of the forest lying below the cliffs and stretching down to the valley floor, can be seen.

From Vyhlídkové místo, there is a shallow valley to be crossed, followed by a short climb up a zigzag path to Ružová vyhlídka, at 433m above sea level, the highest point on the route.

The view south from Ružová vyhlídka © Ricky Yates

This is the view south from Ružová vyhlídka. Decín in the far distance, stands at 135m above sea level which means that Kanon Labe is nearly 300 metres deep.

The view north from Ružová vyhlídka © Ricky Yates

And the view north.

The green waymarked route through the forest © Ricky Yates

From Ružová vyhlídka, the red waymarked route is followed for a further kilometre before turning off onto the green waymarked route, heading back south through the forest.

The path then passes this fascinating geological feature, Slunecná brána, a small sandstone rock arch formation. As you can see, there is a seat provided if you need to rest your weary legs 🙂

The village of Ludvíkovice © Ricky Yates

The path then undulates through the forest, with glimpses of the village of Ludvíkovice through the trees, completing a circular walk and rejoining the red waymarked route.

Retracing my earlier steps for about 0.5km, rather than then walk back into Ludvíkovice, I continued along the red waymarked route, in the direction of Decín. This leads to two further viewpoints.

Sandstone pavilion at Vyhlídka Labská stráž © Ricky Yates

The first of these is Vyhlídka Labská stráž where there is this sandstone pavilion, originally built in the late nineteenth century. As you can probably see in the photograph, the safety barriers have been recently repaired. The stonework has also been re-pointed, restoring the building to its former glory.

The view from Vyhlídka Labská stráž © Ricky Yates

From the pavilion there is this splendid view. On the west/left bank of the Labe is the Prague-Decín-Dresden railway, whilst on the east/right bank, is the main road from Decín to Dresden.

Decín, as viewed from Císarský výhled © Ricky Yates

A further kilometre on from Vyhlídka Labská stráž, is Císarský výhled, which provides expansive views across Decín.

From Císarský výhled, the red waymarked route then descends down this zigzag path to a bus stop opposite Decín hospital. There is a local bus from here, directly to the main railway station. On the day of my exploration, I had to walk to another stop to get a bus back to my parked car.

Further progress with the house and garden

At the end of an earlier blog post entitled ‘Finishing touches and next steps‘, I posted this picture of one end of the small room behind the kitchen and stated: ‘My plan is to decorate it to get rid of all the orange 😉 and then get Elefant to fit further matching units along the wall on the right, to store all those things that didn’t fit in the kitchen’.

On Wednesday 23^rd May, just over two months after I wrote that post, my plan came to fruition when Martin from Elefant, came and fitted my chosen units. Before that, I spent many hours over several days, removing unwanted things attached to, or sticking out from, the walls, and filling the resultant holes. I then applied one coat of white emulsion to the ceiling and two coats, (because of the orange 🙁 ), to the walls. Below is a photograph of what has been achieved.

Room decorated & new units fitted © Ricky Yates

My apologies but, because of the size of the room, or more realistically, the lack of size, it is impossible to get a better photograph to illustrate what has been done. And I do still need to gloss paint the metal door frame, part of which you can see in the photo, as well as the window frame which you cannot see.

A year ago, at the end of a blog post entitled ‘Plenty to keep me occupied‘, I posted the photograph below, of an unsightly pile of earth in the back garden, that I wanted to get removed. As that earlier post explains, its origin was from the building of a retaining wall to hold back the earth at the back of the house, to prevent problems with damp.

Some months ago, I discovered that Rudolf Cebiš from the village, (Ruda to his friends 😉 ), owned a mini digger. I approached him and asked if he would be willing to come and rid me of my unwanted pile of earth. I did so, over a beer in Restaurace U Soni, in a mixture of limited Czech, sign language, and showing him this photograph taken in March this year.

The pile of earth in March 2018 © Ricky Yates

Ruda agreed to do so. However, a combination of the mini digger being used on other work and then breaking down, meant that the day I had longed for, for just over a year, only finally happened on Tuesday 22^nd May 2018.

Mini digger being unloaded © Ricky Yates

That afternoon, the mini digger arrived, sitting on a trailer, towed by a tractor, driven by my near neighbour Petr Novak. Here it is, being unloaded on the driveway alongside my back garden, that gives access to the house behind mine. Petr then drove it into the garden, through a gap where a section of fence can easily be removed.

Petr soon got to work, breaking up the earth, in advance of it being put into the trailer on the other side of the fence. Various of my neighbours gathered around to watch the fun.

Milan, who is my immediate neighbour on the other side, hopped in the cabin and made his contribution to the project!

Within two hours, all was done. The earth taken away, then the mini digger loaded back onto the trailer, and my fence put back together. Now to landscape the bare patch……

Carodejnice – the burning of witches night

Bonfire with witch, ready for burning © Ricky Yates

Yesterday evening, Monday 30^th April, I attended my first ever Carodejnice, here in my adopted home village of Stará Oleška. In the nearly ten years that I have lived in the Czech Republic, I had both heard and read about Carodejnice, but had never experienced the tradition whilst living in urban Prague. However, in the North Bohemian countryside, the tradition is alive and well.

Carodejnice is very similar to the better-known Germanic tradition of Walpurgis Night. It involves having a large bonfire on which the effigy of a witch is burnt. Historically, the idea was to ward off evil spirits. These days, it is used as the opportunity for an outdoor evening party, helped by the following day being May Day or Labour Day, a public holiday.

The Stará Oleška Carodejnice took place on a large grassed area, directly behind Restaurace U Soni. This had been thoroughly prepared over the previous couple of weeks with the grass being neatly mown, a bonfire built, a stall for serving food set up, and two large spit roasters put in place. Then on the day, all the tables and benches from the front terrace of Restaurace U Soni, were transported around the back, out onto the grass.

The evening started at around 17.00, with a series of games for the children. At the same time, the spit roasters were lit to later produce a continuous supply of roasted ham, served with bread & various sauces. Later also, there were sausages that could be put on long sticks and roasted in the fire.

The normal bar and restaurant were closed for the evening. Instead, there was a temporary outdoor bar at the back of the building, serving beer, wine, spirits, soft drinks and tea! Everybody paid for their drinks in the normal manner. An entrance fee of CZK 100, (€4.00/£3.50) per adult, covered the cost of the food.

Just as it was getting dark, the bonfire was lit from the back. Just before it was lit, someone added a second witch 🙂 Soon the bonfire was well alight and both witches were quickly burnt.

The party continued on into the evening, with tables and benches being carried to be nearer the bonfire as the evening air became cooler. It was a lovely event to be part of, very well-attended by village residents, together with some from slightly further afield. We were fortunately blessed with a fine, clear evening, and later on, by a full moon.

Full moon over Stará Oleška © Ricky Yates

PS – Once again, I must apologise for the lack of a hácek above both the ‘C’ and first ‘e’ in ‘Carodejnice’, and above the ‘c’ in hácek. Unfortunately, as I have previously explained, if I put them in, my blog set up cannot cope and ‘ Carodejnice’ would become ‘ ?arod?jnice’.

Bastei

Entering the National Park on the yellow waymarked route © Ricky Yates

Last Friday, I drove over the border into Germany, in order to visit the Bastei, a major landmark in the Sächsische Schweiz/Saxon Switzerland. The Bastei is a rock formation consisting of a series of eroded sandstone pillars, towering above the Elbe river.

Rather than drive to the nearest car park and almost certainly pay a substantial parking fee, instead I drove to the village of Rathewalde. However, even parking there cost me €2.00!

Walking down the main street of Rathewalde, I joined the yellow waymarked route which headed gently upwards into the forest and the National Park.

After walking for about forty minutes, I reached a viewpoint from which the following two photographs were taken.

Then it was onto Bastei itself from where there are spectacular views of the Elbe river below.

View of the Elbe river looking east © Ricky Yates

This is the view looking east, with the hills in the far distance, forming the boundary with the Czech Republic. Below, on the right side of the river is Oberrathen, where there is a station on the Decín-Dresden railway line. On the left side of the river is Niederrathen – the two being connected by a passenger ferry.

View of the Elbe river looking west © Ricky Yates

The view westwards shows the Elbe as it heads towards Dresden with the village of Stadt Wehlen in the distance on the right.

Several of the sandstone pillars are connected by the Bastei bridge, completed in 1851 and replacing an earlier wooden structure. My apologies for a bit of sun-glare in the photograph. At the far end of the bridge are the remains of Neurathen Castle.

Rather than retrace my steps, I decided to return to Rathewalde by the blue waymarked route. This descended steeply and far further than I was expecting 😉 into a deep valley. The path mainly consisted of a series of steps which I was very glad to have chosen to descend, rather than ascend!

At the valley bottom, the path turned left and headed uphill to this waterfall – Amselfall, adjacent to which was a very welcome cafe with outdoor tables and seating. Here I enjoyed lunch, accompanied by a large beer, which provided the sustenance I needed for the climb up the valley, back into Rathewalde.

A sign outside the village Lutheran Church was most welcoming. So I very much enjoyed exploring the Church, still beautifully decorated for Easter, taking time to quietly pray, before returning to the ‘Carly’ and driving back home, over the border.

Interior view of the Lutheran Church in Rathewalde © Ricky Yates

A Good Friday walk to Srbská Kamenice and return

Kostel sv Václava, Srbská Kamenice © Ricky Yates

Yesterday was Good Friday and, for the first time in 28 years, I wasn’t officiating at a Church service. So as it was a fine, sunny Spring day, around midday, I set out walking the yellow waymarked route to Srbská Kamenice. This is a walk that I described and illustrated in a previous blog post last August, which you can find here.

I first passed alongside Olešský rybnik, which is finally no longer frozen. Instead, it was glistening in the Spring sunshine.

Several walkers were having a lunchtime break, sitting on the lakeside benches and enjoying the view.

Walking into the forest, there was plenty of bright sunshine coming through the trees, helped by the deciduous ones having yet to regain their leaves.

But along the way, some detours were required, together with some scrambling over fallen tree trunks.

Another fallen tree across the path © Ricky Yates

This past winter, we’ve had two serious storms which have brought down many trees. The first was Storm Herwart at the end of October 2017. The second was in mid-January 2018. I’m sure the authorities will eventually clear all the paths but they face a massive task.

Another storm damaged tree © Ricky Yates

This is another example of the damage caused by the winter storms but at least this one wasn’t blocking a path.

After reaching Pod Strážištem, at 396m, the highest point on my route, I successfully negotiated the steep decent down to Srbská Kamenice, aided by my trekking pole. As I entered the village, I caught this lovely view of Kostel sv Václava ahead of me.

At Bar-restaurace Ve starém kráme, I rewarded myself with a beautifully cooked trout, eating fish being the traditional food for Good Friday…….

……aided by some liquid refreshment.

Whilst I was there, Ve starém kráme became very busy with visiting Germans, many of whom like me, had been out walking and now wanted a late afternoon meal. I felt quite proud of myself being the only person in the whole room speaking in Czech with the waitress. She very much appreciated me doing so, wishing me a ‘Hezký víkend!’ with a broad smile, as I left. I did respond, ‘Vam také!’

Suitably refreshed, I then headed off on the shorter green route, back to Stará Oleška. The total round trip is about 11-12 kilometres which I can normally walk without any problem. But at the end of the day, my body was busy reminding me that I hadn’t done a walk of that length for a few months!